Was seriously bored this weekend, so build one of the small 3D printer kits, the thing is one step above duct tape and chewing gum but it works. Seriously, the thing is held together with tie wraps and instead of belts and pulleys the axis are driven by string wrapped around those sanding cylinders you put on a dremel.
It's the printrbot simple maker kit, about $350. They have a great web site that tells you everything except where to download all the drivers and software you need, I had to google the programs they kept saying to use so I could find them to download...
4X4X4.5 inch print area.
Some pictures of the thing:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2F3dprinter1.jpg&hash=7c4ad74e958d742e05230420ed431ebff330010e)
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2F3dprinter2.jpg&hash=a73297d669f3b0ffaa3dd1e3e849cd40dcfe5d91)
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2F3dprinter3.jpg&hash=f71e51d709df1fb22ef71738bc028149db14c1ec)
Is it working well? Was calibrating a pain in the ass? Do you keep having to recalibrate? What tools did you need for build and assembly?
Those are the potential issues that keep me from getting one of my own.
Leveling the bed is a pain, I'm considering modifying it to be 3 points instead of 4. Leveling something with 4 screws in the corners takes a lot of passes back and forth. And I've had lots of practice with leveling lab equipment, someone without any experience would have quite a learning curve. And the bed has to be level and the proper distance from the nozzle to get a good first layer. Basically you put a sheet of paper between the bed and the nozzle and adjust the bed until there is a little bit of friction, repeat that in the 4 corners until it is the same amount of friction everywhere.
Next tricky thing is getting the print to stick to the bed, been reading various tricks for that and sanding the masking tape I have worked, along with changing some settings for the first layer. I have to get out and pick up some of the 3M blue painters tape everyone uses.
And yes you do have to keep re-leveling the bed, although once it is good it only requires small adjustments after you pull a build off or put new tape down.
I'm still messing with settings to get good printing, that's not so much of a pain as it is a lot of trail and error, adjusting speeds and distances then trying a print. Printing is slow, and subtle problems don't start to show up until the print is well along, so half an hour or so before you see something wrong and kill the print to try a different setting.
This is the web page of instructions for building the kit, it explains what you need to build it the best:
http://help.printrbot.com/Guide/2014+Printrbot+Simple/88
Edit: new link for the actual kit I got.
Getting it dialed in.
5mm blocks:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2F5mmSteps.jpg&hash=93791e3571a9ab561576ccc70e1100d0fa3410df)
The blue painters tape is much better, I tried the Eiffel Tower several times on the other tape and the "legs" kept popping off or wobbling, with the blue tape it's sticking really well:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Fbluetape.jpg&hash=32da4d5104e2b1a22b423ed53ec369959b01c518)
I have to find a more simple model, my cheap printer doesn't have the resolution for all the detail on this one.
Definitely not enough resolution for this model...
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Feiffeltower.jpg&hash=52ac5c9c00ecb9855a99ddc44397b132c8563262)
The PLA does stick to the blue tape really well, while prying it off the bed it went flying across the room and the top broke off.
Now I've got to see if I can revive my 3D modeling skills, got pretty good at it back in the late 90s building planes for the flight simulator Fly!, but I just installed TrueSpace and can't remember a thing about how to create objects with it, and I'm not sure it can write the files needed for slicing anyway. Might have to look at some of the freeware cad programs out there.
http://grabcad.com/library has a lot of really cool CAD models you can download.
I always wanted to get one of these Braingears and make it 3D printed
http://grabcad.com/library/brain-gear
(https://d2t1xqejof9utc.cloudfront.net/screenshots/pics/bd826e6ad2d4026e6dfbe5e597234a13/medium.JPG)
Lots of those on Thingiverse, the really high end printers can do them in one go.
split up into sections that can be glued together it's not that hard of a print for even a printer like mine.
You will have to pardon me because I don't have the patience or fortitude to do my research so would someone be so kind as to kind of explain some questions I have? What kind of material does a 3D printer use to create something? Can I use it to make toys like my own customized Star Wars or Dr Who figures? Can it scan from a physical template or must it be digital?
Quote from: Soguru on June 17, 2014, 05:56:24 PM
You will have to pardon me because I don't have the patience or fortitude to do my research so would someone be so kind as to kind of explain some questions I have? What kind of material does a 3D printer use to create something? Can I use it to make toys like my own customized Star Wars or Dr Who figures? Can it scan from a physical template or must it be digital?
The most common type of home printer uses plastic, PLA or ABS are the 2 most common types. You buy a spool of plastic filament, it goes into a heated nozzle where it's melted and put down in thin layers on the print bed. There are lots of more advanced types, liquid resin, metal powder, etc....
It's all digital, the printer needs X Y Z information from a file. If you have an object you want to copy you have to either build it in a CAD program or scan it using a 3D scanner. Makerbot has a home 3D scanner for I think about $700, it's a turntable with 2 lasers and a camera.
Glad I didn't jump right into getting a big expensive printer, this kit has been teaching me a lot.
There are so many variables, temperatures, speeds, different ways of filling in, messing around with downloaded objects is showing me what works and what doesn't. Got the standard large bolt and nut printed and works, nautilus gears work, Eiffel tower printed larger in 4 parts worked well but still too much fine detail for the little printer.
Finally got smart and started doing all the slicing on my desktop and transfer the files to the laptop connected to the printer through the network, way faster to try different settings running the slicer program on my desktop.
Now I've got to try to design and build something, been trying out lots of free CAD programs, the thing with the free ones is that one might be good for one type of object but lousy at others, still going through them, hope I can get it down to only needing to learn 2 programs.
Of course the danger is if I do manage to design and build some of my own stuff, it will get me thinking about buying a larger printer with better resolution.
Still haven't created something in CAD and printed it.
Downloaded stuff that has come out well:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2F3Dpintedstuff.jpg&hash=e792e6048dbc1037cd3383a61f6b025f9eae77e4)
The chain took forever, must have tried 20 ways of starting the first layer, one or 2 pads for the links would always pop off when it got up to 3 or 4 layers.
Those look really good. What type of resin?
The little printer uses PLA plastic filament only. To use ABS plastic you need a heated build platform.
So are you planning on making yourself a Mr. T style set of chains to wear at all times?
I think that might be hard to do in a 4X4 inch area. ;D
Been looking at escapement designs for making a clock, a pin escapement would probably be best for making on the little printer. Rubber bands instead of a spring might also work. Lots of ideas in my head, just need to find and learn a good free CAD program to create the parts.
FreeCAD is a pain in the ass to use, so many quirky ways it does things, but of all the programs I've tried it's the best free one I've seen for building parts for gadgets.
It's a steep learning curve but I've managed to build a box with 2 halves that fit together, with openings for spool like things to attach rubber bands to, if the ratchet parts I'm printing tonight work I'll have something I can wind up to power a clock. Next will be to design some type of escapement that will work with all printed parts. Want to build a clock that is nearly 100% printed, only needing rubber bands and maybe some glue.
And with some fine tuning of the ratchet "arm" it works.
All these parts drawn in FreeCAD and printed:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Frubberbandpower1.jpg&hash=d5db5d7284c3617e4aa0c15af870bb278b37573c)
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Frubberbandpower2.jpg&hash=3192b7aab8851ebde17278bc3999b2b5419c9a53)
Now that you seem to be reliably printing things, how often do you have to recalibrate the printer?
And good luck on the clock.
Quote from: Variety of Cells on June 26, 2014, 06:50:00 PM
Now that you seem to be reliably printing things, how often do you have to recalibrate the printer?
The bed has to be leveled each time you start it up, takes about a minute for me to do it now, would be faster on the more expensive printers that don't require an allen wrench to do it (and some have 3 point leveling that is much easier than 4).
Some models have a distance sensor that measures the bed before each print, so you never have to level, it compensates in software during the print.
Doesn't really need any other calibration, X Y and Z have been pretty accurate even after all the abuse I've put it through. Must have gone through half a spool of black and 1/4 spool of white filament in this short time. I'll probably print out the 5mm steps once a week just to check it, I assume the sand paper cylinders will slowly wear out requiring slight adjustments of the the steps/mm settings for X and Y. I might order the upgrade kit from printrbot to replace those with timing belts, but if I stay with it that long I'll probably end up getting a better printer instead, the 4x4 inch space limitation is quite restrictive.
I did have to put some old 486 CPU heat sinks on the stepper motor that feeds the filament. It was heating up too much and losing power to the point where it could feed the filament in. The heat sinks seem to have solved that problem without needing to add a fan.
Check it out, you can make a rudimentary lathe:
http://www.askmen.com/entertainment/galleries/top-50-things-you-can-make-with-a-3d-printer-3.html
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fthingiverse-production.s3.amazonaws.com%2Frenders%2F08%2F71%2Fa1%2Fb7%2Fce%2Fservo_preview_featured.jpg&hash=d3da1dc995a7a4ebf37f93d7fccf6508397c5e7b) (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:50812)
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi78.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fj117%2FTriple_sSs%2FSOL3DModel_zps95ee7524.png&hash=d7579c195aa9e77e441eccff6674ba1753a85d38) (https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?redirect=1&mid=bbc7ceae1d9b9e9be3bf13b8cd77dc4e)
I can't seem to find one of Crow, but I bet you could with more digging.
I tried printing the little Servo, came out nice except for his hands, can't print in air, I'll try turning on the supports in the software to see how that works, I think it will mess up because his hands are not over the build plate, so the supports would have to be built on his hover skirt.
Some cool silhouettes out there, might print one of those.
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on June 27, 2014, 01:10:21 AM
I tried printing the little Servo, came out nice except for his hands, can't print in air, I'll try turning on the supports in the software to see how that works, I think it will mess up because his hands are not over the build plate, so the supports would have to be built on his hover skirt.
Some cool silhouettes out there, might print one of those.
I don't know if you can edit the mesh, but you could potentially print the arms separate and glue them on.
Quote from: Variety of Cells on June 27, 2014, 10:41:41 AM
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on June 27, 2014, 01:10:21 AM
I tried printing the little Servo, came out nice except for his hands, can't print in air, I'll try turning on the supports in the software to see how that works, I think it will mess up because his hands are not over the build plate, so the supports would have to be built on his hover skirt.
Some cool silhouettes out there, might print one of those.
I don't know if you can edit the mesh, but you could potentially print the arms separate and glue them on.
I've wanted to do that with a few other meshes and couldn't find any software to do it, best that I could find was being able to cut a mesh in 2 along a plane.
Would need to find a cad file for Servo to split him into printable parts.
Quote from: Darth Geek on June 26, 2014, 08:29:46 PM
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fthingiverse-production.s3.amazonaws.com%2Frenders%2F08%2F71%2Fa1%2Fb7%2Fce%2Fservo_preview_featured.jpg&hash=d3da1dc995a7a4ebf37f93d7fccf6508397c5e7b) (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:50812)
Dang it Darth, I've been trying to tell myself I shouldn't buy a 3D Printer... you're not helping! ;D
Printed it out with supports turned on, wasn't too hard to clean up the spots where the supports were attached:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Ftomservo.jpg&hash=e275d127f6e117c43840298b005f21813c3c5f3d)
Awww I want one!
I keep getting away from my clock build, saw this and had to grab the files, not sure how it will work but going to give it a shot:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fthingiverse-production.s3.amazonaws.com%2Frenders%2Fc6%2Fcf%2Fc5%2F66%2F1c%2Feagle_one_preview_featured.jpg&hash=527e87ae8dd455ba4df2bf1b0a1b519ef0314ae6)
Edit: No luck, when the parts are scaled down to fit my printer the tubes get too thin to print.
After trying about 10 different pin escapement designs it's time to give up and think of a different type, just too much friction between the plastic parts for it to work.
Got my spool of blue PLA from Amazon, now I can print out a blue TARDIS... ;D
Found a cool Saturn V model in 4 parts that came out pretty nice.
Ordered a kit to upgrade my printer to belt drive and the auto-leveling sensor, comes with all new wood frame parts and the sensor, so I'll have to carefully take apart what I built and rebuild it with the new wood frame, but it should be much easier to use and more stable with the belts vs. the string, no more bed leveling each time I turn it on. Although more than half the time now I don't have to do any adjustments.
Still wanting to print stuff larger than 4 inches, the Printrbot simple metal will do 6x6x6 inches, pretty sure I wouldn't want anything larger, and besides, the ones that do an 8 or 10 inch cube don't go much faster, so stuff that big would take an entire day to print, I'm running into 10 hour prints now....
big image of the rocket (white plastic is almost as hard to photograph as black):
Spoiler
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2FsaturnV.jpg&hash=cddf5345df2176140043db78254df5dbabed5341)
Well, I got the 2nd printer, 2 extra inches in each direction is much nicer, have already been printing out big stuff, and some accessories for the thing.
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Fprintrbots.jpg&hash=0bca79a3b2e648237702b37db9994ccaea7e1987)
Hmmm, looks like it will take about 18 hours to print a 6 inch tall TARDIS, but I think I HAVE to do it....
18 hours later and I have a 6 inch tall TARDIS, in blue:
Could have saved half that time, I thought with the larger size and setting the layer height to 0.1mm it would help with the text (police public call box) in the design, but it didn't.
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Fbluetardis.jpg&hash=33921a30cad9abba82d8b032855a6cfa146cd38d)
If a guy can get a pant load of money on a kickstarter for potato salad, maybe I can do one for a 3D printer? Cuz I really want one the more you post stuff.
Sorry K1, just don't promise printed objects as rewards, you'll be printing them forever.
Guy at work likes this artist and found this:
3D printable version of Marcel Duchamp's rare Art Deco chess-set
http://boingboing.net/2014/07/07/3d-printable-version-of-marcel.html
Looking at the files, Pawns will take just under an hour, larger pieces up to 3 hours each, and entire set will take forever to print...
I am printing out the knight now to see how my printer does with it, the other pieces I'm kind of meh about but that is one cool looking knight...
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on July 09, 2014, 04:20:34 PM
18 hours later and I have a 6 inch tall TARDIS, in blue:
Could have saved half that time, I thought with the larger size and setting the layer height to 0.1mm it would help with the text (police public call box) in the design, but it didn't.
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Fbluetardis.jpg&hash=33921a30cad9abba82d8b032855a6cfa146cd38d)
Looks good. The text coming out like that is pretty common. So is the whole thing solid, or is there a "sparse fill" option on that printer?
Quote from: Darth Geek on July 09, 2014, 05:18:31 PMSo is the whole thing solid, or is there a "sparse fill" option on that printer?
How much you fill is an option in the software that takes the mesh of the model, slices it into layers, and generates the huge text file that tells the printer what to do. For the TARDIS it didn't need to be real solid so I used 10%, inside it is a checkerboard pattern of thin walls spaced probably 1/2 inch apart.
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on July 09, 2014, 07:10:38 PM
Quote from: Darth Geek on July 09, 2014, 05:18:31 PMSo is the whole thing solid, or is there a "sparse fill" option on that printer?
How much you fill is an option in the software that takes the mesh of the model, slices it into layers, and generates the huge text file that tells the printer what to do. For the TARDIS it didn't need to be real solid so I used 10%, inside it is a checkerboard pattern of thin walls spaced probably 1/2 inch apart.
Yeah, that's sparse fill. If you don't need a lot of strength (or in the case of the blocky type part like the Tardis) it works well.
Well, a TARDIS needs a Dalek to go with it, right?
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Fdalekandtardis.jpg&hash=bb7af6616a9cd35451caeb92b490f2d16a0e99cf)
Got the upgrade kit for the wood kit printer, I modified it to use a wider print bed, 3 extra inches in X:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Fwidesimpleupgrade.jpg&hash=56c41d180e4f40a3454a86d3cb3a7870b5e13921)
I can now run both printers without connecting to a computer since both now do auto leveling.
QuoteNASA 3D-prints a nebula, and you can too!
Ever wanted to hold a nebula in your hands? Well now you can thanks to plans from NASA. Warning: It kind of looks like two molars stuck together.
http://www.cnet.com/news/nasa-3d-prints-a-nebula-and-you-can-too/
Well, needed something to test out the new X axis parts I just made for the wooden printer (the red parts at the end of the print bed in the picture). So that model from NASA is just in time:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2FnewXends1.jpg&hash=2da1b982318bdd61c05334889ec7a2a709484fa4)
Can't find any published sizes on that nebula, but estimating from it's rate of expansion and when it is believed to have started I calculate my 5 cm 3d model of it is at an approximate scale of:
1:100000000000000000
Took about half an hour to print the model, printing time scales fairly linear with volume, and volume is cubed as you increase size, so 100 quadrillion cubed divided by 2 for the hours needed to print it out full size. ;D
Someone on another forum said to print a scale Enterprise to explore that nebula, the ship would be smaller than picometers, in other words sub atomic size.... The sizes of things in the universe really are unimaginable...
Finally got a semi-working pendulum escapement, still binds in spots, but I think that can be fixed with some minor changes to the paddle wheel. I've had it running for about a dozen swings before binding, so it's getting there.
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2FcylinderEscapement.jpg&hash=370ba03e5691b65806dde1e5ce8fec2243ab5936)
http://io9.com/nasa-has-released-printable-3d-models-of-spacecraft-and-1610117276
I downloaded a bunch of those NASA models a few weeks ago, most of the spacecraft are not suitable for home printing. Too many fine details that get completely ignored by the slicing software, so you end up with only bits and pieces of the craft. Possibly doable with liquid resin printers using HD projectors, but not the melted plastic extrusion type.
You should see if you can find a 3D model of the MST3K Spaghetti Ball
Quote from: Darth Geek on July 24, 2014, 07:20:54 PM
You should see if you can find a 3D model of the MST3K Spaghetti Ball
I've looked, none I could find.
Should be possible, take the video of the ball spinning and save enough frames to get pictures for every angle, I know programs exist that can take a series of pictures around an object and build a 3D model. I just don't think any of them are freeware but I haven't looked real hard.
Somebody with a really accurate 3D scanner could scan one of those stress balls they sold with the XX set.
I'm about half way through printing all the parts for a light saber.
So far they are looking amazing, just like the pictures on the page below. I'm printing them in red just to test out the parts, hope I don't have to reprint them in black and white so the base color doesn't show through the paint I'm going to use.
I'm not going to do the aging, just normal black, sliver, and brass color, but check out the paint job done on this page:
https://www.ultimaker.com/blogs/news/2014/07/02/3d-printed-lightsaber-design-philosophy
After 2 days of printing it came out pretty nice:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Flightsaber1.jpg&hash=977283d8e2462e3a64bef00080babc0d199d9c3a)
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Flightsaber2.jpg&hash=d9130dc9befa3ed90ef05a059629b31adb852c82)
From what I can tell this is a full size replica, but wow this thing was made for someone with small hands. Or they didn't think about the ergonomics when making a cool looking prop. Or a combination of both....
Edit: Good thing I haven't glued anything yet, looking at the original I see I put that ring near the end on backwards, easy to remove and flip.
Went with the paint I had left over from the big Enterprise build, the PLA plastic takes paint really nicely, but doesn't sand as easily as styrene.
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Flightsaber3.jpg&hash=081ce06af297438c736f5948d7eb06a48f3c6c73)
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Flightsaber4.jpg&hash=71cc391d8d28bb48f37fc4e1a226111daf8813af)
Man I hadn't even considered how 3D printing would revolutionize the replica prop side of things. Thanks amazing.
that's a weird looking dildo. ???
Finally found a piece of wire that works for the D-Ring, so now it's done:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Flightsaber5.jpg&hash=c4921315a4830302e26dfed86f4d15749a0599f7)
http://www.geeksaresexy.net/2014/08/27/no-big-deal-guy-3d-prints-an-actual-castle-using-concrete-pics/
My first practical household item drawn up in FreeCAD. My wire soap holder works fine with the bar of soap is new, but when it gets thinner it slips out of the sides, now it can't:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Fsoapdish.jpg&hash=a37829079195b245047d2894b37e8c3959c69c22)
I watched the doc on Netflix about the 3D printers. It was more about the corporate CULT-ure and The Church of Silicon Valley than the hardware or software so this thread was very informative on that topic.
What I was most interested in, however, was the guy that designed plastic guns for the printer. The U.S. government shut him down. Now, of course, the idea of undetectable guns is pretty scary. But, what did the kids who put out this tech think was going to happen? People are no damn good!
Oppenheimer said, "I have become Death, Destroyer of Worlds..." and he looked haggard in that film. He knew that he had opened a Pandora's box. These kids think and say, "We are going to change the world!" having no knowledge, apparently, that this is not always a good thing.
What about knives? You can make an undetectable knife with this tech... should the government shut that down, even if you wanna cut tomatoes with it? Isn't this a matter of free expression? What is the liability of the kids who made this possible?
Oh, and sex-toys, people will make a bunch of those, as goflybind intimated! LOL!
Do you remember the name of what you watched on Netflix? I'd be interested in that.
People have been making guns out of various different stuff pretty much since the first gun was invented.
As for undetectable, for the 3D printed one you still need a nail for the firing pin and the bullets, both of those are pretty detectable, the nail would be easy to hide in something else and pass, but bullets are pretty easy to spot with X-ray or a metal detector. Technically I guess you could build something that would be free of metal and make one shot, but the bullet would have to be ceramic or something like that, not printed plastic. Mythbusters has shown many times that light materials are not fatal when used as bullets, only one I think they ever got to work was bone machined to look like a bullet, and even then they needed to fire it from a rifle point blank.
Way cheaper to buy some plastic dinnerware if you want a plastic knife than to print one.
The best sharp edge straight out of the printer would be about the same. ;D
Oh, it was really good, it was called "PRINT: The Legend" it followed the progress of Makerbot and Formlabs, the kids that worked so hard to bring 3D printing to the desktop.
Over the two years while they brought their printers to market, started their "Start-up", etc... these documentarians followed them.
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on October 06, 2014, 02:49:02 PM
Do you remember the name of what you watched on Netflix? I'd be interested in that.
People have been making guns out of various different stuff pretty much since the first gun was invented.
As for undetectable, for the 3D printed one you still need a nail for the firing pin and the bullets, both of those are pretty detectable, the nail would be easy to hide in something else and pass, but bullets are pretty easy to spot with X-ray or a metal detector. Technically I guess you could build something that would be free of metal and make one shot, but the bullet would have to be ceramic or something like that, not printed plastic. Mythbusters has shown many times that light materials are not fatal when used as bullets, only one I think they ever got to work was bone machined to look like a bullet, and even then they needed to fire it from a rifle point blank.
Way cheaper to buy some plastic dinnerware if you want a plastic knife than to print one.
The best sharp edge straight out of the printer would be about the same. ;D
That's true, of course. But if prison has taught us nothing, it's that you can sharpen anything into a weapon. You are right about the guns, there must be some metal, so, why did the state department shut him down? That is an interesting question... what did he use for a firing pin or bullet?
Well, thinking about it... a zip-gun can be made out of pretty much anything, and the parts would be fairly undetectable separately, especially by underpaid, bored, security checkers. Not at LAX or the two other airports that have the naked body scanners... but like, Newark airport? 20 year old technology...
I know too much... Um... I love America like bacon! No need for feds to get involved with this conversation... nothin' to see here... move along...
Excellent light-saber hilt, BTW! That's the coolest thing I ever saw come out of a 3D printer! Excellent paint job, too. What did you use to paint it? What kind of paint? I would think acrylic wouldn't adhere to it well... Testor's oil based, perhaps? Like the plastic models I used to paint as a kid... a thousand years ago?
I used Tamyia acrylics to paint the light saber, they stick just fine to plastic, they are made for styrene models after all. I had those colors left over from my big TOS Enterprise model build (see the collectables thread from March to May for pictures of that if you missed them).
As for the gun questions, it is actually illegal to make a hand gun at home without a license. I read the list of what you can build at home a long time ago so can't remember all the rules. The receivers that turn a gun automatic have different rules. That's the big controversy now, but again people have been making their own receivers without 3D printing. Of course that is a part that is much easier to make with a printer.
I'm going to watch that documentary now, I wonder if it's new enough to go into the boycott. After all the talk of open source Makerbot went ahead and patented some stuff extremely similar to mods done by the community, caused a bit of an outrage...
Yes. The doc goes into the open-source controversy. All the idealism in the world, falls to the money...
It is illegal to make a gun at home without a license. I studied law for about 5 minutes, (contract law is mind numbingly boring... and you can't get to criminal law without the horror of contract law.... I still have PTSD from contract law... at night I still hear the screaming....!)
Gun law, very murky area. A defense lawyer would say, what constitutes a gun? Is a crossbow a gun? Perhaps it is a toy...
I think the point is, however, to address your issue, it IS illegal to make a gun without a license.... it is also illegal to smack a guy in the mouth, or fly planes into buildings. But, people do.
This is what I am saying, "...people are no damn good..." Lex Luthor...
Watched the movie, pretty good stuff. I actually didn't know Makerbot was sold to a bigger company, no wonder they have moved to the model where you can't really fix it yourself. I've read that on the newer ones if you get a filament jam in the head you can't take it apart to clear it, you have to buy a new assembly from Makerbot. It was one of the reasons I didn't get one, that and the higher cost.
That Form 1 is a nice printer, but pricey.
Wow, that 3D printed gun guy, much ego? Look up narcissistic douchebag and his picture should come up. ;D
Edit: The Documentary must have been finished very recently, they mention the CEO of Makerbot being replaced in the slides at the end, just looked that up and I think it only happened a month ago.
http://io9.com/3d-print-your-very-own-working-stargate-1666385136?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+io9%2Ffull+%28io9%29
Stargate for 3D printers.
That is very cool! Love how it is put together. I've looked at some of the stargate models but haven't gotten around to printing any.
Since I've only been using my simple metal I took apart the wooden simple and have the idea to design my own printed printer with that hardware.
Slight miscalculation in fitting the motor for X:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Fmiscalculation.jpg&hash=16c67047f5ef56f1a0582fe99b7391f934bf2d39)
I had been concentrating on the box that connected to this one, that has the motor for Z in it, got that height and then subtracted for the X bearings without realizing the motor would then stick out the bottom.
Oh well, time to redesign the whole thing, it was good to use this for testing, going to need slightly beefier supports for the Z rods, and slightly smaller holes for those bearings on each side of the stepper motor since the bolt threads are not biting into the plastic as well as I'd like.
Version 2 is better:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Fprintedprinter2.jpg&hash=868f348f7515cd5e3bbfae4999f98044a13759a9)
Starting to look like a printer:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Fprintedprinter3.jpg&hash=3fc21188fd448a24da92f97ec467bbab43c818e0)
First try at build plate holders was close but had issues, belt slots were a millimeter too high so the belt was coming off the bearings, and I made the attachment slots for the plate screws centered instead of skewed towards the Y zero side. So you can see new redesigned ones printing in the background there.
Rainy day stuck inside so, progress!:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Fprintedprinter4.jpg&hash=341b0255b25d3edf7251411daa8b4e55ca255ab5)
That part for the Z axis is just a test piece for taking measurements from as I try to figure out the rest of this thing.
3 more parts to print and we'll see how she works...
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Fprintedprinter6.jpg&hash=04c12691104954e67266a8e14cecb857895db068)
Well, my crazy printer project is done, but it sags.. :(
The Y rods are just not long enough to clamp onto.
I've got it propped up now with glue in the holes for the rods, we'll see if that will help.
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Fprintedprinter11.jpg&hash=2fe5aa68753e1d43a054aaec77a148f315fb71a5)
But it actually works, the leveling software can even compensate for the print head moving at an angle...
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Fprintedprinterprinting.jpg&hash=769d2e448c4fe86c290d19fdca3cfed79308816b)
Even if the glue doesn't work it was an interesting thing to try and build, my CAD skills have been improved quite a bit.
I like http://grabcad.com for browsing cool stuff to print.
Lots of cool stuff on that website, I might have to create an account there (required if you want to download).
So, 1 week to go from some crazy ideas in my head, to this on the computer:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Fprintedprinterdesign.jpg&hash=c50e4a2450700b4ae0a94fcecad63be6f6383270)
To this physical thing:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Fprintedprinter12.jpg&hash=f6d5f9a9fb7fbfdbc2c340cd4f3878e230036168)
After propping it up and gluing Y it is now only sagging about 2mm end to end, so the leveling software is easily dealing with it and prints are looking fine:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Fprintedprinter13.jpg&hash=d1b8338f2f059fca9abb46b748fd4dcda0249a5f)
This is what makes 3D printers so cool, need something you can't buy anywhere, just print it:
Little part so I can attach my new GPS to my dashboard without interfering with the window or the air vents.
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Fgps%2520holder1.jpg&hash=ef0ee22f8fb070bfaad6bc964deb9743ab44600f)
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Fgps%2520holder2.jpg&hash=528fe2225a6d35203c8eddbcb50c4e276d4fa595)
Very cool!
By any chance would you be able to print out some reproduction radio knobs? (Not sure if there's a model that can be downloaded online somewhere or not) I found a site that has them but they want $10 a piece for each knob. I'll gladly throw a couple bucks your way if it's something that can be done.
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.renovatedradios.com%2Fassets%2Fimages%2FParts%2FKnobs%2FPhilco_Rosette_knobs.JPG&hash=c9ae856dce290cbd434ff745340d07456b54bf1a)
Philco Rosette Knobs (KPH-R)
Philco rosette style knobs used on many cathedral and console radios.
Models: 21, 70, 90 cathedrals
Dimensions: Small - 11/16" base diameter, 1/2" tall. Medium - 7/8" diameter, 3/8" tall
Large - 1-1/8" diameter, 5/8" tall
All knobs fit 1/4" flatted shaft
I think I'd need 1 large, 2 medium, 1 small.
I did a search and couldn't find anything downloadable.
I have gotten better with CAD but there are some shapes on those knobs I don't think I could replicate. I've been looking to learn Blender but when I look at it there seems to be a pretty steep learning curve.
If you can find .stl files I'd print them for you, in black or white (only color plastics I have at the moment).
I'll poke around and see what I can dig up. I've seen a few other people also looking for .stl files for Philco parts
I played around in FreeCAD but couldn't get anything that looks good for those knobs, too many compound curves.
I was kind of bummed that the belt clip for my Otter box phone case broke, until I realized I could make a new one pretty easily:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Fbeltclip1.jpg&hash=bbc2486ce440e23e4647583aabf5a288e9f681ec)
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Fbeltclip2.jpg&hash=cc85050a0177affd644cc0113e2858a46d6c24b1)
Took about an hour in CAD to design, about 45 minutes to print, and about 30 minutes shaving down the pins so the clip would fit on correctly and the metal spring would fit in.
Also took some video of the printer I printed:
Printed out a 2 foot tall Saturn V and added some paint and markings. Took 3 evenings to print the 5 sections. I was going to print out the markings on white decal paper but my regular printer paper blends in with the white plastic so well I went with that and glued it on.
Painting was a pain, masking tape is nearly useless on the raw printed parts, all the little "strings" of plastic that are not completely melted together pull the paint under the tape, so I had to do the black panted parts mostly by eye. Reading some forums it seems putting a later of filler primer on the plastic first will make it act more like molded plastic as far as paint goes.
Not as nice as a commercial kit but not bad for nearly free:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2Fmodels%2FsaturnVa.jpg&hash=da0f41d2b00fe645b5bf0d51afbf3ff74a62e441)(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2Fmodels%2FsaturnVb.jpg&hash=2dea9ac98bf5d24a37a584183e17a82d87eaa640)
Not sure if I'll paint the F1 engines a better color or not, and I guess I should paint the command module aluminum...
That's really cool! Is it solid or hollow? If it's solid it would weigh a ton.
It's hollow.
This is it at Thingiverse:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:45316
This might be the coolest thing I've printed so far:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Fweepingangel.jpg&hash=90a6d195d73074a98dd65a68adaabf781740c7a6)
This is the smallest thing I've printed so far, the little "pipe" that covered all the connections between the command and service modules on the Saturn V rocket:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2Fmodels%2Fsmallest%2520printed%2520part.jpg&hash=c7889a6bf5162bd044151cc2073562ff0a75fcfc)
Printing that big Saturn V made me want a better detailed one, so bought the Revell 1:144 model. Unfortunatly I should have done better research and paid the extra $10 for the Airfix model, the Revell one hasn't been updated since 1965 when they still didn't have all the details of the Saturn V finalized, so I'm having to print parts to make the thing more accurate.
Like better motors for the second stage:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2Fmodels%2Fstage2motors.jpg&hash=dc9e684800c6aa83f5887101b4d42179e6b38d38)
And better parts for the service module:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2Fmodels%2Fservicemoduleparts.jpg&hash=c8fe0a405a63850ce1d3cde2454dc8030df8be07)
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2Fmodels%2Fcommand%2520module.jpg&hash=b1522b787a5a8d6930782b20adf179303de0a6a3)
Been looking for a larger printer, but don't want one enough to spend another $1000...
Microcenter had one old Velleman 8200 kit left very reduced, just over $300, bought it for parts but decided to try out the stock design:
Tore apart my blue plastic printer to use those electronics and extruder:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2FVBprinter1.jpg&hash=5e56935732b14f908a24f990953462eacf4ff2b1)
But after trying out tons of setting changes I wasn't happy with the print quality, moving the bed in X and Y is just way too much mass, so unless you print really slow you get wavy lines after sharp corners (ringing).
So, rebuilding it with a more traditional design, that was my idea from the start buying the kit, should end up with something that can print 8x10x9 inches:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2FVMPBtake2.jpg&hash=7e4089d17a15ae4827060f35ef3d10132e8ffde5)
Made a mistake putting the frame together, I had measured the Y motor for how much space to leave between the columns, but at some point while messing around with them I moved them closer, and then designed my YZ plate using those positions, so I've got to redo that part. But it showed me how stable it will be, takes a lot of force to push the rods down when extended so it shouldn't have any sag:
The failed design:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2FYZfail.jpg&hash=401d5f45b30bcc9be4ad9ec4ddaa1c47c73e9d34)
Got my new design all done, working much better than the Velleman design, moving the print bed in both X and Y looks cool but it's just too much mass to move around quickly and not have issues.
So this now has the size increase I wanted at about 1/3 the cost of the printer I was looking at upgrading to (the Printrbot Metal Plus):
My test parts have come out nice and smooth so far:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2FVBbig1.jpg&hash=b0a0b78612249b8e65b60bc44609013e2a39fa56)
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2FVBbig2.jpg&hash=6575e3d01ed8e01cb48d9aa167bd2b360f5bf483)
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2FVBbig3.jpg&hash=152f35ff0d205333a6f49eeded07b56b47f42cbb)
Got my big printer dialed in pretty well now. Not sure if this can beat the weeping angel for the coolest thing I've printed, but it's close:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Ftrex.jpg&hash=02fffec5a8aac8d576b58d525e8716a6c3d65f6e)
Skull took a little over 6 hours to print, the jaw took about 2 1/2.
is that the showerhead one?
That is awesome, Marty!
Quote from: goflyblind on February 15, 2015, 03:54:53 AM
is that the showerhead one?
Haven't seen the showerhead one. The model I used was this:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:308335
I didn't print the stand.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:329596
is there any godzilla related stuff out there for 3D printing?
That shower head is hilarious.
Doing some searching and I don't see much Godzilla stuff. At least nothing that looks worth printing.
Quote from: goflyblind on February 15, 2015, 10:15:39 AM
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:329596
Shouldn't that be a Dilophosaurus skull?
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg3.wikia.nocookie.net%2F__cb20090430172730%2Fjurassicpark%2Fimages%2F8%2F8e%2FJP-Dilophosaurus1.jpg&hash=35e34a0156d01082ee0a2891c52a1494a7663dbc)
Quote from: Darth Geek on February 15, 2015, 02:38:31 PM
Quote from: goflyblind on February 15, 2015, 10:15:39 AM
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:329596
Shouldn't that be a Dilophosaurus skull?
ooo, good point. someone with a CAD program and a 3D printer get on that for me.
Quote from: goflyblind on February 15, 2015, 02:45:35 PM
Quote from: Darth Geek on February 15, 2015, 02:38:31 PM
Quote from: goflyblind on February 15, 2015, 10:15:39 AM
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:329596
Shouldn't that be a Dilophosaurus skull?
ooo, good point. someone with a CAD program and a 3D printer get on that for me.
Too bad that's not the kind of CAD modeling I do. I'm a mechanical engineer.
Been printing a few parts a day for the complete T-Rex skeleton.
21 prints down, 95 more to go, might be done by mid March:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Ftrexskel.jpg&hash=0a24e3595997c12158c62f2c4a65be12bdcb7001)
awesome.
Got some more done on the T-Rex:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Ftrexskel2.jpg&hash=06c491f4066dbe885273f29493aeee262a2c8457)
Getting the hip area glued in place is going to be a challenge, the hip, femurs, spine, and ilia are all independent bones, the only good connection point between them all are the tops of the femur bones.
Put a big blob of glue on the spine to hold the hip and femurs, hope it holds:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Ftrexskel3.jpg&hash=0f59923606dafd4877d41608be34a2fa3c2ec1a1)
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on February 27, 2015, 08:25:19 AM
Put a big blob of glue on the spine to hold the hip and femurs, hope it holds:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Ftrexskel3.jpg&hash=0f59923606dafd4877d41608be34a2fa3c2ec1a1)
That's probably how God designed them.
Quite a bit more progress being stuck inside all day today:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Ftrexskel4.jpg&hash=ae86e571c19bd7bde53a215cc6a8680bc7966056)
Going to have to print a stand for it, no way it will balance on those legs even after I finish the tail, and the CA glue isn't the strongest so wouldn't want to have it standing on those legs anyway.
And now it has arms, stupid, tiny arms... ;D
And a stand:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Ftrexskel5.jpg&hash=375d15f5074960f2c1db94168295c7515e249683)
Just 38 tail bones to print out now, been trying to combine them into groups but not having the same luck I had with the feet and arms, so it looks like I'll have to print out each one separately.
yaaaaay!
It looks like the stand layering is built up from the bottom. How do you prevent the tall posts from just breaking off? At work we have stuff called Ambroid, which is like a thin glue. But even that isn't guaranteed.
Quote from: Darth Geek on March 03, 2015, 08:27:35 AM
It looks like the stand layering is built up from the bottom. How do you prevent the tall posts from just breaking off? At work we have stuff called Ambroid, which is like a thin glue. But even that isn't guaranteed.
It was a bit dicey watching those print when it got to the top, especially since my red PLA ran out so I had to feed in some black as the red ran down.
The rods were bending when the hot end was moving, especially when it went from one to the other, I'm kind of amazed the tops look rectangular at all considering how much they were wobbling while the layers were being added.
I did think about them snapping off at the base, so I put in a 5mm fillet around the bottom edges of the rods. After seeing how much they were being bent when the tops were being printed I'm pretty sure if I had left a sharp edge there they would have snapped off at the first layer above the base.
Took some video of my home designed printer running and time compressed it:
Where's Q-Bert?
Finished my T-Rex skeleton:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2FT_Rex1.jpg&hash=e170ea1d54cb6297fc606c3e9985f7d71f55e722)
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2FT_Rex2.jpg&hash=d307dbc0a4a23e142a36361adcc05fd13c68c09f)
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2FT_Rex3.jpg&hash=b58562c0c1ddab1d65736a2fca9378fa3b3e5cfb)
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2FT_Rex4.jpg&hash=b19120c3c0e10ed0e7a691b4064aeacb3273fe1e)
That's fantastic.
That is awesome!
faster printing? http://imgur.com/gallery/8XB1o
didn't go look at the links they posted, but six minutes for this seems good.
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2F9RmoMYP.gif&hash=930862b945a44a9626b769c187b8cad776179a07)
Quote from: goflyblind on March 17, 2015, 08:53:10 AM
faster printing? http://imgur.com/gallery/8XB1o
didn't go look at the links they posted, but six minutes for this seems good.
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2F9RmoMYP.gif&hash=930862b945a44a9626b769c187b8cad776179a07)
Not just the speed, but the apparent lack of need for support material for a shape like that.
There is still support material, but a lot less, just the area that attaches the part to the build plate. Same as all resin printers like this that print from the bottom.
I guess their new twist is creating a zone of un-curable resin that the light can pass through, that solves quite a few issues, allowing for continuous movement of the build plate. Normally with resin you've got to stop, expose, move, stop, expose, move, etc. Eliminating all that stopping probably doubles the speed over standard resin printers. Although I could see this method failing easily, if the oxygen permeable plate has an issue you'll get a solid blob stuck to it where ever oxygen isn't getting through.
I wonder how the newer 3D printing tech does with preventing the parts being brittle in the Z axis. ie, the layers seperating. When I run parts at work in our FDM machines, I often have to specify a particular orientation of the part in the machine so that things like snap legs and thin sections won't break.
The resin + light based printers don't seem to have that issue if all is working well, the layers are basically epoxied together.
The resin is way more expensive than PLA or ABS, and you have to wash it off the part, usually with alcohol.
Unfortunately with FDM the are not many ways to get good Z layer adhesion, higher temperature helps a little, but thinner layers help more, so your print times go way up. Or do some post processing like an acetone vapor bath.
Have a heart:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Fheart2.jpg&hash=11d730e86da287ce4829e6df2b1c368c4af42d2e)
After watching Jamie's Adam's grueling build video for the maze from The Shining on tested.com, found a 3D model of it on Thingiverse.
Having some fun with slow shutter speeds while it's printing:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Fshiningmazeprinting.jpg&hash=f561556db67bf7eb3e4714ff7842c8e5388276cc)
Going to be about 9 inches on the long side, I cut 2.5 mm off the bottom, to trim 5 hours off the print time.
And here it is done:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Fshiningmaze1.jpg&hash=b5a3368834769a650802ce2f9d175ef7f8f7333d)
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Fshiningmaze2.jpg&hash=a6e83e6831279543a29d7b3af1d90c4b1bd9f7b2)
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Fshiningmaze3.jpg&hash=a8f57f9e13e635a9680cbfcff4d0537a94099d13)
needs a little frozen jack.
Or tiny minotaur.
My first attempt at coloring it, didn't have any flat green paint so tried magic marker and alcohol, thought maybe on the white plastic it would give it a look as if snow was mixed in but it didn't come out anywhere near what I wanted. From several feet away it looks OK but close up like in the picture it's pretty bad.
Next time I'm at the hobby shop I'll pick up the proper paints and make it look better.
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Fshiningmaze4.jpg&hash=eafaa1bcf0ba477ec4129899b693833a0785303c)
This is an interesting design, I have my doubts about them being able to hit that price point, it's crazy low, so I wouldn't risk any money on the kickstarter, but it will be interesting to see if they really can start shipping units at that price by the end of the year:
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/tiko3d/tiko-the-unibody-3d-printer
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on April 03, 2015, 01:44:12 PM
This is an interesting design, I have my doubts about them being able to hit that price point, it's crazy low, so I wouldn't risk any money on the kickstarter, but it will be interesting to see if they really can start shipping units at that price by the end of the year:
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/tiko3d/tiko-the-unibody-3d-printer
It's a good thing I'm broke because that'd be tempting.
At the very least I think if it's successful it'll break 3D printing into even more common use. And they still have 26 days to go, but have already raised 8X their required money!
I've been reading some of the comments and answers to questions by the people doing that Kickstarter, huge number of red flags go up. Everything is secret and "new", if it breaks you'll have to ship it back to them, and from everything they said it sounds like they are slapping together very cheap parts that will not last ($1 geared stepper motors?).
There have been several other printers started on Kickstarter that have yet to ship after making a huge amount over their goal, this will probably be another one.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:468872
3D printable Spider Rover.
http://www.youtube.com/v/VCwuc3o3bI
That spider thing looks cool, but I've found most of those types of gadgets require you to print at really high resolution to have a chance of them working, so you've either got to have a really expensive printer or use very long print times on typical home printers.
Painted my Maze from The Shining, went with a dark green just to see how it looked, think I'll keep it this color:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Fshiningmaze5.jpg&hash=c637087f5224667cea4c1b9258bdbbfe7bb40beb)
definitely a better paint job!
https://www.etsy.com/listing/192415685/werewolf-skeleton-3d-print?ref=related-4
3D printed werewolf skeleton
Quote from: Darth Geek on April 22, 2015, 08:26:01 PM
https://www.etsy.com/listing/192415685/werewolf-skeleton-3d-print?ref=related-4
3D printed werewolf skeleton
That's absolutely fascinating.
Quote from: Variety of Cells on May 12, 2015, 03:39:04 PM
Quote from: Darth Geek on April 22, 2015, 08:26:01 PM
https://www.etsy.com/listing/192415685/werewolf-skeleton-3d-print?ref=related-4
3D printed werewolf skeleton
That's absolutely fascinating.
I want to see if I hit somebody with it if they'll turn into a werewolf that can drive a 3D printed car.
This looks kind of funny while it's printing:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Fleaningtower.jpg&hash=b84904fd74ac1103341baf14d174e6a7798206b1)
yer printer leans a bit to the right.
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on June 27, 2014, 04:59:21 PM
Printed it out with supports turned on, wasn't too hard to clean up the spots where the supports were attached:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Ftomservo.jpg&hash=e275d127f6e117c43840298b005f21813c3c5f3d)
Our local library just got a 3D printer we can use for free for small jobs! About how long did it take to print Htom?
Quote from: k1 on May 30, 2015, 04:28:02 PM
Our local library just got a 3D printer we can use for free for small jobs! About how long did it take to print Htom?
Printed a ton of stuff since then (well 6 Kg...), loading the model into my current setup the program says about an hour using fine resolution, about half an hour at medium.
Looking at that picture I'd guess that I printed that using fine (0.1mm) layer heights.
Remember to turn on or say you need supports so his hands actually print (fused layers don't work too well in mid air).
That's really cool that the library has one, hope they have someone that can maintain it well, I'm guessing you submit the file and someone there prints it? If anyone in the library could mess with one of these it wouldn't last long... The plastic is so cheap now, less than $20 a Kg (2.2lb), so the actual cost of that Tom Servo is only about $0.10.
Thanks!
They have several classes that they teach there on designing and printing. I talked to the lady a bit at their booth at the local Maker Faire. She said they will start charging to print at some point but while they are in the process of building public interest in it they will print stuff for free if we ask over the next few months.
My son was really interested so I set him up on TinkerCAD last night.
Finally got time scheduled at the library to print! Unfortunately because of another job they had to do I had to scale down the size and quality a bit.
But still I will have a two inch tall Tom Servo that I printed!
Quote from: k1 on July 16, 2015, 12:42:45 PM
Finally got time scheduled at the library to print! Unfortunately because of another job they had to do I had to scale down the size and quality a bit.
But still I will have a two inch tall Tom Servo that I printed!
He's going to need a whole lot more lifts in his skirt now.
Quote from: k1 on July 16, 2015, 12:42:45 PM
Finally got time scheduled at the library to print! Unfortunately because of another job they had to do I had to scale down the size and quality a bit.
But still I will have a two inch tall Tom Servo that I printed!
If it's the type of printer that needs supports for the hands be careful when you remove them, the fingers are easily broken off. I printed a 4 inch tall one a few months ago and did some painting on it, but that model on Thingiverse is missing a lot of details that you notice when you print it larger.
I just ordered my first part from shapeways, a sample holder for a spectrometer at work, printed out one at home that works but the shapeways part should be more solid.
When I saw this on Thingiverse I had to try it.
I've had issues with print in place objects before but this one worked perfectly
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:925556
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Fplatform_jack.jpg&hash=7619f416bbb8f8e29b63d6354d666f685393980b)
Took only a few minutes to get the parts to pop free from each other.
Forgot to cross post this video:
Quote from: k1 on July 18, 2015, 10:27:23 AM
Mini episode! 3D Printing!
I've started rebuilding my large sort of home made printer, currently deciding on how to mount the Y rods and motor.
This is what I have so far:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Fbigprinterrebuild.jpg&hash=0cdf86f858865183d76c38a552178852d49d7069)
Wow, MartyS, eventually you'll work your way up to making a cement 3D printer like that guy who built the castle.
One thing building and rebuilding these printers has done is really improve my CAD skills, I'm making parts that fit together and fit into existing parts so much easier now.
At work we have a really good industrial 3D printer (FDM process), which we use all the time for our designs. It's ten years old and at the end of it's warrantee life, so we need to get a new one. It makes excellent, and very accurate, parts that are very useful for us in the engineering department. We need to get a new machine, and they are looking to buy another industrial one, maybe even a better process than FDM. But in the meantime, some idiot in management bought each of our design departments these smaller desktop style 3D printer machines. They spent $2,500 on each of them, and they are absolute GARBAGE! Remember, we're an engineering department. We design plastic latches (mostly). They are machines, with closely fitting moving parts! This damn machine can't make an accurate part for shit. I forget how many departments total they bought for, but it adds up to a decent chunk of change that so far looks like it's wasted. Fucking idiots.
When you look around at all the FDM printers that cost less than 10 or 20 grand they are really not any better than what I've built myself. You can get really accurate parts from them, but you would need a full time person to run the printer. If you read the complaints in the home 3D printing forums people complain about the exact same problems on $400 or $3000 printers. They are all still firmly in the hobby arena.
Basically you've got to run tests for every part you design, tweak the print settings, make sure the printer is properly calibrated and set up. To get the linear bearings and the brass Z threaded "nuts" to fit perfectly in my YZ blocks I had to print probably 6 test parts, changing the diameter of the holes .05 mm each time, each one taking 20 minutes or so to print. You need to adjust the diameter of smaller holes more than larger ones because of the way the plastic squishes out of the nozzle and the way it pulls into corners or turns.
So, yeah, $2500 printers was a waste of money if you need accurate test parts quickly. And a big waste of money if you want to have a CAD file match the part exactly, all the adjustments I mention above would make the part unusable if the file was printed on a more accurate machine.
The $3000 resin printers that use HD projectors can be really accurate, but the resin costs something like $100 a liter, so the prints are an order of magnitude more expensive than the printers with plastic coming out a hot nozzle.
And had the management done ANY kind of actual research, they would have found that out. I just think they figured that because they were getting a $2500 printer vs a $400 one that it would be better. And maybe it is in some respects, but certainly not for what we need.
Since I had yesterday off and it was raining I finally got around to finishing the last few parts to rebuild my big printer.
Still need to do some wiring and then the hours of calibration can start.
I figure the final print area will be somewhere around: X 200mm, Y 200mm, Z 300mm.
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Fbigprinter2a.JPG&hash=a00b717410199caf727f0c04393a8a2ae6e43649)
Wow, cool. How accurate will it be?
Quote from: Darth Geek on March 26, 2016, 09:46:31 AM
Wow, cool. How accurate will it be?
I'm hoping it will be as good as any home FDM printer, or at least as good as my Printrbot Simple Metal. It will still have all the accuracy issues of any printer that squeezes out melted plastic from a moving nozzle. Everything is very stable, even at the top it takes quite a bit of force on the nozzle area to move it, and that's what messes up prints on cheap printers, all those fast direction changes causing the print head to wobble away from where it's supposed to be.
Got all the wiring done and after about 4 hours getting all the new settings dialed in it is printing.
Also figured out a way to mount the power supply on the side.
Print area ended up being X 200 mm, Y 230 mm, Z 295 mm.
And here it is in action:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Fbigprinter2b.jpg&hash=2f46fd8885cedcdf31fc37e4162077a7380e519d)
*coughYouTubevideocough* 8)
Hypnotic :o
I've been printing out parts for this all day, came out pretty good:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2FTardis2.jpg&hash=5bab49aeb9add77178cca9d1cda90f63a22d3995)
The lamp shade is white plastic, the windows are photo paper leftovers from printing the call box signage.
nice, very crisp text.
This is hilarious, a machine made of Legos that 3D prints with Lego blocks:
When I ordered my airbrush I forgot to order a holder and cleaning pot. I had been looking at kits for a long time but almost all of them come with compressors and I already got one for my house so when I switched to getting individual parts I forgot about some stuff.
Found a holder on Thingeverse, and there were cleaning lids for mason jars but only ones I liked were for larger jars that what I had, so whipped up one in CAD and it works fine:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Fairbrush%2520cleaner%2520and%2520holder.jpg&hash=18906933388678f88dc4dfe32ea64ecc7556fd5b)
Rainy afternoon so I spent a few hours doing dots and lines, getting better at controlling the flow of paint. It's an odd combination of movements, push down on the button to make the air flow, then pull the button back to make paint flow, and control dot size with distance to the surface.
The cheap airbrush I got did need some tweaking to make it better, the needle was rough so that needed polishing, air hole around the paint nozzle was not round so needed to be drilled out with a size 63 drill bit. It sprays pretty good now. Only thing going to a more expensive one would fix is finer control as you move the button back and forth, not sure I'll ever need that doing models, I won't be doing artwork where you need to start and stop lines perfectly.
Cool, I'd love an airbrush, if only to save on cans of spray primer. But I don't think I can justify the expanse yet.
The one I got was about $30, and about $40 for hose, regulator with water trap, and fittings to hook it up to my compressor.
It's kind of strange that small compressors with 1 gallon tanks for airbrushing are more expensive than the 1HP 4 gallon one I got at home depot. But they are way more quiet, mine is very loud. I have the compressor on the other side of a wall in the basement and drilled a hole to run the hose to my desk, I can have the air on the brush going for probably 10 minutes before the compressor kicks in for 30 seconds.
yeah I'd have to get everything, including a compressor and a good spray booth for my tiny one room apartment.
Ah, that's where I was up until January, limited to brush painting.
Now that I can stink up the basement any time I want I'll have to try 3D printing with ABS or some exotic filaments.
Toying around with getting the Da Vinci pro 3 in 1 printer/scanner/engraver.
I like the option of having the scanner built in but reviews seem to say it's not so great at scanning.
Quote from: k1 on February 20, 2018, 04:49:54 PM
I like the option of having the scanner built in but reviews seem to say it's not so great at scanning.
There are still no consumer priced scanners that work all that well, they all have serious limitations and produce low quality models.
They are OK if you want to scan simple things, but anything with overhangs or holes causes problems.
Looking at reviews I don't like what I see about that printer....
Not sure what commercial printer I would get right now, if I were buying another printer now I'd go with the Prusa i3 MK3 kit. Not sure if you can get those already assembled. How are you at putting stuff together, maybe watch some videos on building the Prusa kit.
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on February 20, 2018, 05:59:03 PM
Quote from: k1 on February 20, 2018, 04:49:54 PM
I like the option of having the scanner built in but reviews seem to say it's not so great at scanning.
There are still no consumer priced scanners that work all that well, they all have serious limitations and produce low quality models.
They are OK if you want to scan simple things, but anything with overhangs or holes causes problems.
Looking at reviews I don't like what I see about that printer....
Not sure what commercial printer I would get right now, if I were buying another printer now I'd go with the Prusa i3 MK3 kit. Not sure if you can get those already assembled. How are you at putting stuff together, maybe watch some videos on building the Prusa kit.
I'd certainly be willing to give it a shot. My main thoughts for the Da Vinci was the enclosed printer because of my cat (the kids fortunately know not to touch it) and the option for the laser engraving.
This is the kit you were talking about right? http://amzn.to/2CdB1VJ
Or would I be better off getting the MK3?
Cats would certainly be drawn to the fast movement of the print head. So you would want to keep them away somehow.
Not sure how good the laser engraving is on these home printers, it doesn't seem possible when stand alone engravers cost much more. Also, messing with high powered lasers in the home is not a great idea, one mistake can cause permanent eye damage. A reflection off a couple shiny surfaces is all that is needed.
That link is to the mark 2 that came out a few years ago, still a good printer and a bargain at that price, the current price on them MK3 kit is just under $800.
Prusa does sell pre-assembled printers but the price is $250 more than the kits, this is the direct Prusa website:
https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/17-3d-printers
I saw in the questions section that it's not an official Prisma, but a clone. Should I avoid that one?
Quote from: k1 on February 22, 2018, 07:48:45 AM
I saw in the questions section that it's not an official Prisma, but a clone. Should I avoid that one?
That's a tough call, the Prusa is open source, so anyone can get the parts list and the CAD files for the plastic parts and make their own kits. As long as that vendor followed the list and used a good printer to print the plastic parts it would be the same as the kits offered at the official Prusa site, if they put lower quality parts in the kit then it's a gamble.
No reviews at all for that printer is a red flag I guess, only 1 feedback on the seller, and the seller only seems to be selling 4 things, so maybe too much of a risk at $500 after you add the $50 shipping. :(
Spent some time looking through what is out there now, maybe the best recommendation would be to go with the da Vinci Jr. 1.0 Pro without the scanner:
https://smile.amazon.com/Open-Filament-XYZprinting-Vinci-Printer/dp/B01MUBKPFC?ref=ast_p_ep
The other company I'd look at would be Flashforge but their's are now getting a bit pricey. Funny that a lot of the companies that started out makeing cheaper printers have gotten more expensive as the companies have grown.
Quote from: k1 on February 21, 2018, 04:10:02 PM
I'd certainly be willing to give it a shot. My main thoughts for the Da Vinci was the enclosed printer because of my cat (the kids fortunately know not to touch it) and the option for the laser engraving.
You're going to reenact the Every Country Has A Monster song, aren't you?
Quote from: Darth Geek on February 22, 2018, 10:07:20 AM
Quote from: k1 on February 21, 2018, 04:10:02 PM
I'd certainly be willing to give it a shot. My main thoughts for the Da Vinci was the enclosed printer because of my cat (the kids fortunately know not to touch it) and the option for the laser engraving.
You're going to reenact the Every Country Has A Monster song, aren't you?
OH MY WORD THAT IS A GOOD IDEA
Leaning towards the Prusa Mk3 kit. Seems like a better option in case a part breaks or I want to upgrade it.
Quote from: k1 on February 25, 2018, 09:40:45 AM
Leaning towards the Prusa Mk3 kit. Seems like a better option in case a part breaks or I want to upgrade it.
Let us know how far you lean so I can satiate my desire for a printer vicariously through you.
Quote from: k1 on February 25, 2018, 09:40:45 AM
Leaning towards the Prusa Mk3 kit. Seems like a better option in case a part breaks or I want to upgrade it.
Awesome, it is a great printer, I did my home made large printer based on that design.
And since you'll be putting it together you'll know how to fix it, because if you really get into printing a lot of stuff you will need to do minor repairs and fixes when something like an extruder clog happens. I think they still use the E3D V6 hot end, so you can get replacement extruder parts easily without going through Prusa.
Just don't expect to print big stuff, it's kind of a trap, you get an idea to print something big and then you see the print time going up to 36 hours and give up. You really shouldn't let these run unattended, or at least don't leave the house while it's printing, it's a device that melts plastic at 200°C (400°F) and has wires flapping around, so there is a small risk of it catching on fire. So put it in a room with a smoke detector.
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on February 25, 2018, 12:00:47 PM
Quote from: k1 on February 25, 2018, 09:40:45 AM
Leaning towards the Prusa Mk3 kit. Seems like a better option in case a part breaks or I want to upgrade it.
Awesome, it is a great printer, I did my home made large printer based on that design.
And since you'll be putting it together you'll know how to fix it, because if you really get into printing a lot of stuff you will need to do minor repairs and fixes when something like an extruder clog happens. I think they still use the E3D V6 hot end, so you can get replacement extruder parts easily without going through Prusa.
Just don't expect to print big stuff, it's kind of a trap, you get an idea to print something big and then you see the print time going up to 36 hours and give up. You really shouldn't let these run unattended, or at least don't leave the house while it's printing, it's a device that melts plastic at 200°C (400°F) and has wires flapping around, so there is a small risk of it catching on fire. So put it in a room with a smoke detector.
I think I read that or heard that some have a pause function. Does that actually work? Or will there be an irregularity at the point where it paused?
Quote from: Variety of Cells on March 22, 2018, 02:47:57 PM
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on February 25, 2018, 12:00:47 PM
Quote from: k1 on February 25, 2018, 09:40:45 AM
Leaning towards the Prusa Mk3 kit. Seems like a better option in case a part breaks or I want to upgrade it.
Awesome, it is a great printer, I did my home made large printer based on that design.
And since you'll be putting it together you'll know how to fix it, because if you really get into printing a lot of stuff you will need to do minor repairs and fixes when something like an extruder clog happens. I think they still use the E3D V6 hot end, so you can get replacement extruder parts easily without going through Prusa.
Just don't expect to print big stuff, it's kind of a trap, you get an idea to print something big and then you see the print time going up to 36 hours and give up. You really shouldn't let these run unattended, or at least don't leave the house while it's printing, it's a device that melts plastic at 200°C (400°F) and has wires flapping around, so there is a small risk of it catching on fire. So put it in a room with a smoke detector.
I think I read that or heard that some have a pause function. Does that actually work? Or will there be an irregularity at the point where it paused?
Some newer printers do have that, the latest Prusa even has the option to recover from a power failure.
I haven't seen any reviews on how well it works. I could see a pause working well if the printer finished an outer layer and then moved inside a fill area to pause, but with a power failure there's no control of where the print stopped, if it was on an outside wall I'd think there would be a deformity in that area because of the heat from the nozzle (it takes several minutes for the nozzle to cool down).
As for my printer I just installed a sheet of BuildTak on it, so much nicer than painters tape, print sticks well without having to squash the first layer, sometimes sticks too well but so far I haven't damaged the BuildTak while removing prints.
Printed this 200mm tall Nomad model last night:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Fnomad.jpg&hash=65f7038b00b36da395ad905f40d89c6d0bbdf688)
I saw a few videos of people unplugging the Prusa mk3 mid print. Didn't seem to have any issues.
I haven't ordered my printer yet. Seems to still have a backlog on orders but it's not as long as a wait as it was a month ago.
Someone at work just ordered a pre-built one, seems pre-built ones are shipping about a week faster than the kits, he said it was expected to ship April 9th.
The more I look at that printer the more tempted I am to order one, my home made printer is pretty good but there are a few little issues with not perfectly smooth sides near sharp corners (ringing that I haven't been able to get rid of unless I lower the print speed a lot).
We got the Prusa MK3 at work, it's an amazing printer, biggest surprise is how quiet it is.
I've been curious about PETG so went to Microcenter over the weekend and picked up some. It is a bit more tricky to print with than PLA, but it's got properties more like ABS but without the smell and it sticks to the print bed better. Nice thing is it sands way easier than PLA, so it will be much better for model parts.
Redid some of the wiring on my big printer, and added a strip of LEDs at the top to light it up. Also found a workbench at Home Depot that fits the space where I had my 3D printing stuff in the basement, so it's off the floor.
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2F3dprinting.jpg&hash=8b27c196132683257c38dd2fd977b9f5ec94acfd)
Looks like Prusa is falling behind again, note on their shipping page says they got hit bad by the flu so a lot of their workers have been out sick, and they are switching to a new shipping system, so orders are still delayed over a month.
Finally got around to ordering my Prusa and my bank automatically declined the transaction since it was out of the country. *sigh*
Have to wait til Tuesday and call their fraud department to verify that it was a legit transaction and try again. Then wait until they finally ship out my kit...
Quote from: k1 on May 27, 2018, 07:54:45 PM
Finally got around to ordering my Prusa and my bank automatically declined the transaction since it was out of the country. *sigh*
Have to wait til Tuesday and call their fraud department to verify that it was a legit transaction and try again. Then wait until they finally ship out my kit...
Always annoying when that happens. But it's always less annoying than not having fraud protection.
Quote from: Variety of Cells on May 27, 2018, 08:33:59 PM
Quote from: k1 on May 27, 2018, 07:54:45 PM
Finally got around to ordering my Prusa and my bank automatically declined the transaction since it was out of the country. *sigh*
Have to wait til Tuesday and call their fraud department to verify that it was a legit transaction and try again. Then wait until they finally ship out my kit...
Always annoying when that happens. But it's always less annoying than not having fraud protection.
True!
Although the bank called this morning to make sure everything was legit. I confirmed that yes I was trying to order something. They said ok and I should be good to go.
Waited a few hours and ordered again...
INSTA-DECLINE. *facepalm*
Did you ever get it ordered? I see they are back up to a month lead time on the kits, even though they claim to be shipping 800 a day.
I've been playing Subnautica so much I had to print this when I saw it on Thingiverse, it's a little small, probably needs to be printed at 125% to 150% size.
Subnautica Survival Knife:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Fsubnauticaknife.jpg&hash=a29056f7334b581c36af927f98b92d46cea5b93c)
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on June 07, 2018, 08:20:59 PM
Did you ever get it ordered? I see they are back up to a month lead time on the kits, even though they claim to be shipping 800 a day.
I did! And it took about 4 weeks to arrive (plus an extra few days because DHL transferred it to another carrier).
DHL called me to confirm that someone would be home all day to sign for the package. Then the day it was supposed to be delivered they passed it off to the USPS... where it was mailed from Boston to Rhode Island to be sorted and then sent to the post office in my town, and then delivered the next day. So I burned a vacation day waiting for a package that never arrived. :grr: And they didn't provide tracking info from USPS so I had no clue where the thing was until I called to yell at DHL. They let me know that there was tracking (and gave it to me) and that it was still signature required. Naturally it was dropped off by the mailbox on the side of the road and nobody had to sign for it.
But other than that nonsense, so far the build is going well. It's about half way finished at this point I think. I'll hopefully have video of it being built. I'm doing a time lapse of it because it's a LOOOOOOONG process.
Quote from: k1 on July 03, 2018, 02:49:55 PM
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on June 07, 2018, 08:20:59 PM
Did you ever get it ordered? I see they are back up to a month lead time on the kits, even though they claim to be shipping 800 a day.
I did! And it took about 4 weeks to arrive (plus an extra few days because DHL transferred it to another carrier).
DHL called me to confirm that someone would be home all day to sign for the package. Then the day it was supposed to be delivered they passed it off to the USPS... where it was mailed from Boston to Rhode Island to be sorted and then sent to the post office in my town, and then delivered the next day. So I burned a vacation day waiting for a package that never arrived. :grr: And they didn't provide tracking info from USPS so I had no clue where the thing was until I called to yell at DHL. They let me know that there was tracking (and gave it to me) and that it was still signature required. Naturally it was dropped off by the mailbox on the side of the road and nobody had to sign for it.
But other than that nonsense, so far the build is going well. It's about half way finished at this point I think. I'll hopefully have video of it being built. I'm doing a time lapse of it because it's a LOOOOOOONG process.
Stuff getting transferred to USPS always seems to mess things up royally, oddly stuff shipped by USPS priority from the start always seems to go well...
There are a ton of parts to the thing, and they all need to be aligned very well, so yeah the build process is long if you take your time and do it well.
I tried printing that Subnautica survival knife larger but it failed, I think there are issues with the 3D model that are not a problem at default size but show up when printing it larger, like a gap around the central ring that shouldn't be there.
Printrbot, the company that made that first kit I bought when I started this thread has filed for bankruptcy.
Can't say I'm surprised, for the last few years when I went to their website I was baffled by what they were selling. They stopped making affordable stuff and were only selling more expensive stuff. They were still high quality and cheaper than companies like makerbot but when you are known for one thing and stop doing that thing it's a hard thing for a company to survive. And they moved into a price area where there was tons of competition.
Got a new microphone and stand, but it was picking up way too much of every tap on my computer table, so whipped up this thing in FreeCAD and printed it out, works pretty well. I need to find some longer rubber bands, these are stretched a little too tight and some vibrations are still making it to the mic.
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2Ftemp2%2Fmicring.jpg&hash=41432e08834b02a271de1c5a2dbf79e6d69ca683)
Tried out the time lapse feature in the video camera I got, works well but I zoomed in to much so the fast motion of the printing gets hard to watch in spots. Probably should have gone with less time compression to smooth things out more and add a couple of minutes, the setting I used compressed 1 hour into about 3 minutes.
In my project to replace the plastic horizontal blinds in my bedroom with cellular shades I used 2 different brands, one came with a handle and one didn't, so I took some measurements and fired up FreeCAD, took about 40 minutes each to print and now I've got 2 handles that work just like the ones on the other 2 windows.
Luckily I was watching the beginning of the first print, noticed the bits that slide into the grooves were way too big, it was the thing that gets me every time with taking measurements of round things, measure the diameter and use that measurement in CAD, except in CAD it's always a radius so you have to divide your measurements by 2.
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2Fhouse%2Fshadehandle1.jpg&hash=6f5481f15e402f619386e99a5c272b31a2815806)
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2Fhouse%2Fshadehandle2.jpg&hash=8b7b410ad13940b5c1d80ad54c3cd0e905636651)
Got the idea to try and design and print a reproducer for my Victrola, it plays records pretty good:
Close up picture:
(https://forum.rifftrax.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.science.widener.edu%2F%7Eschultz%2F3dprinter%2Freproducer.jpg&hash=9aa714a08884b7965b5cb851d895130bfd593fe7)
All the money you pay for an otterbox case for your phone and the belt clips never last more than 3 years.
3D printer to the rescue (for the second time, belt clip broke after 3 years with my last phone as well):
(https://www.science.widener.edu/~schultz/3dprinter/otterbeltclip2.jpg)
I'm trying to learn Blender again, to model a flower that could be 3D printed for a research project someone is doing at work.
I've tried a few times over the years and gave up quickly, but it seems starting at version 2.8 they improved the interface quite a bit. Still, this program has a very steep learning curve, after watching a few hours of YouTube videos I'm just starting to figure out some stuff.
It's amazing, I've gotten so good at using regular CAD to build just about anything mechanical, but hardly any of those skills are helping with learning this program. It's just so densely packed with tools, it's now to the level where people have made entire 3D animated shows only using Blender.
Not having much luck creating the flower in Blender, but I created a flower shaped object in FreeCAD and used the sculpting tools in blender to shape it into something more flower like.
(https://www.science.widener.edu/~schultz/3dprinter/3Dflower3.jpg)
(https://www.science.widener.edu/~schultz/3dprinter/3Dflower1.jpg)
Got some Ninjaflex filament. Took a few hours to get the print settings dialed in, and my extruder still has some issues with it sticking to the drive gear, but I did manage to print one test object.
You have to print very slow with this stuff, you are basically trying to push a rubber band down a straw, try to go too fast and it kinks.
This dust blower works, it's not air tight, if I hold my finger over the hole and squeeze air leaks out all over the place, but quick squeezes move quite a bit of air out the tip.
(https://www.science.widener.edu/~schultz/3dprinter/ninjaflextest.jpg)
I've been wanting to do some finer detail prints at home for models, but I've got my cobbled together printer going about as good as I can, I could spend a few hundred on more parts and maybe get it better, but decided to order a Prusa MK3s instead. Ordered the kit, I'll have plenty of time at home over the next months to build it.
Got my new printer built and currently printing the high resolution tree frog test file.
(https://www.science.widener.edu/~schultz/3dprinter/new%20prusa%20printer.jpg)
The patio chair I got from Amazon has one annoying part that if you bump your knee or leg into hurts a little, so I printed some rubber bumpers to cover the annoying part:
(https://www.science.widener.edu/~schultz/3dprinter/patioreclinerbumper.jpg)
Still printing test pieces on the new Prusa MK3S, the first 2 prints look amazing:
(https://www.science.widener.edu/~schultz/3dprinter/mk3s_first_2_prints.jpg)
Did you follow the instructions and take the appropriate number of gummy bear breaks? (Ours didn't last. The kids devoured the whole bag by the second one.)
Quote from: k1 on April 08, 2020, 08:17:01 AM
Did you follow the instructions and take the appropriate number of gummy bear breaks? (Ours didn't last. The kids devoured the whole bag by the second one.)
I didn't parse out the bears like the instructions called for, but I did eat a few at a time (after I went to the website to get an English ingredients list to make sure they were soy free), and a bunch after building the extruder (they weren't kidding about that part being the most complicated), by the end I did have a handful left to munch on.
At one point during the extruder build I was using the "pull" method to get a nut into one of the holes and the threads locked up, must have been something wrong with the screw threads. Ended up having to use a dremel cutting disc to cut the head off the screw and push out the locked up nut. The heat from cutting melted the plastic slightly but the part was still usable. Nice that they give you a big bag of extra parts, so plenty of extra screws and nuts to replace the ones I had to cut.
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on April 07, 2020, 10:18:51 AM
(https://www.science.widener.edu/~schultz/3dprinter/mk3s_first_2_prints.jpg)
So does your printer have separate support material?
Quote from: Darth Geek on April 08, 2020, 11:33:01 AM
So does your printer have separate support material?
No, I didn't get the option to use different filaments. If I design something I try to do it where it doesn't need supports, or only supports that go up from the build plate. For the times supports are needed inside the print the algorithms in the slicers these days do a pretty good job of putting them in so they are easy to remove with little clean up needed.
Didn't like the sound of most of the train whistles I've downloaded, so decided to try and design my own.
During the printing the cooling fan made it start singing, took a video of it:
Realized I don't think I ever posted the pics of the life sized Waverly that I printed and my kids helped build. I kinda fell off the forum with the whole selling my house a few years ago and moving and not readily having a computer set up in a convenient spot. Hopefully I'll pop in more now that we finally are semi-moved into our new place.
*edit* The link to Instagram isn't working. I'll have to find a work around...
Printing
https://twitter.com/onewallcinema/status/1150144397402628096?s=20
Painting
https://twitter.com/onewallcinema/status/1157714942323318784?s=20
Finished Product
https://twitter.com/onewallcinema/status/1158142287282659329?s=20
Can't remember where I got this file from, been in my models folder for a while, love the detail the new printer is capable of:
(https://www.science.widener.edu/~schultz/3dprinter/TheChild2.jpg)
(https://www.science.widener.edu/~schultz/3dprinter/TheChild.jpg)
Man! You could make a bunch of these and sell them on ebay :o
Quote from: RVR II on April 30, 2020, 02:48:14 AM
Man! You could make a bunch of these and sell them on ebay :o
Takes about 8 hours to print one, and people would want them painted, not really worth the time and effort when you could go to Shapeways and get one printed for probably less than $20.
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on April 30, 2020, 07:26:27 AM
Quote from: RVR II on April 30, 2020, 02:48:14 AM
Man! You could make a bunch of these and sell them on ebay :o
Takes about 8 hours to print one, and people would want them painted, not really worth the time and effort when you could go to Shapeways and get one printed for probably less than $20.
People sell them unpainted at conventions all the time.
I printed a 2nd one for painting, my airbrush was acting up so wasn't getting even coverage, but it's not bad:
(https://www.science.widener.edu/~schultz/3dprinter/TheChild3.jpg)
Longest print project I've done yet, just over 30 hours total time printing these:
(https://www.science.widener.edu/~schultz/models/TOS_shuttle/TOS%20shuttle%20front%20and%20back.jpg)
After gluing and putty and sanding it's starting to look good, still more putty and sanding to do:
(https://www.science.widener.edu/~schultz/models/TOS_shuttle/TOS%20shuttle%203.jpg)
Here's the Galileo model all pretty:
(https://www.science.widener.edu/~schultz/models/TOS_shuttle/TOS%20shuttle%205.jpg)
(https://www.science.widener.edu/~schultz/models/TOS_shuttle/TOS%20shuttle%206.jpg)
(https://www.science.widener.edu/~schultz/models/TOS_shuttle/TOS%20shuttle%207.jpg)
So does anyone here have a laser cutter? I am interested in getting a K40. I'm just wondering how loud they are and how much smoke they put out. I live in an apartment complex and I don't know if my neighbors would have a problem with it, or if the smoke vented out the window would be enough to cause some concern.
Simple little design to hold a shower curtain rod using command strips:
(https://www.science.widener.edu/~schultz/3dprinter/showercurtainrodholder.jpg)
Always hated putting pressure on the wall tiles with the press fit rods, and at least once a year they fall down. Also didn't want to drill into the tile for anchoring, although some of the curved rods I looked at were tempting.
So, I just pulled the rubber feed off the press fit rod, measured the diameter of each end and made 2 holders to fit the 2 different sizes of the ends. Used the command strips made for bathroom use so they should stay up, the tabs to pull the command strips off are hidden behind the ends of the rod.
Quote from: Darth Geek on June 01, 2020, 07:53:18 PM
So does anyone here have a laser cutter? I am interested in getting a K40. I'm just wondering how loud they are and how much smoke they put out. I live in an apartment complex and I don't know if my neighbors would have a problem with it, or if the smoke vented out the window would be enough to cause some concern.
Just looked those up, wow, I would not risk my eyesight with one of those. A momentary reflection off a smooth surface is all that would be needed to cause permanent blindness.
At work we had to dismantle one of the lasers because of regulations put in place about 10 years ago (maybe 15?), it wasn't even as powerful as the 40 watt one in these machines and to use it required cut off switches on the doors to the room, room had to be light tight. I was willing to install the switches but there were other regulations that no one wanted to deal with.
There are videos on how to make those chinese 40 watt devices safer, basically do not trust the clear cover they put on them to block the wavelength of the laser completely, so cover it with something opaque, also installing some safety cut off switches to kill the laser if the cover is opened would be the minimum to do first. Also spend at least $100 on the proper glasses for the type of laser in the device (I think those machines are all C02 lasers). The low cost of the machines makes people think they may not use good filter material for the window looking into the chamber.
I also watched some videos where people put in flow sensors for the cooling water, that laser will kill itself if it's on and the water stops flowing.
One video also said to throw out the blower that comes with the thing, get a good high flow exhaust fan because you are burning what ever you put in the thing. With good dilution from good air flow wood should smell like someone using their fireplace, but plastic will smell terrible so the neighbors might complain.
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on June 13, 2020, 09:28:18 PM
Quote from: Darth Geek on June 01, 2020, 07:53:18 PM
So does anyone here have a laser cutter? I am interested in getting a K40. I'm just wondering how loud they are and how much smoke they put out. I live in an apartment complex and I don't know if my neighbors would have a problem with it, or if the smoke vented out the window would be enough to cause some concern.
Just looked those up, wow, I would not risk my eyesight with one of those. A momentary reflection off a smooth surface is all that would be needed to cause permanent blindness.
At work we had to dismantle one of the lasers because of regulations put in place about 10 years ago (maybe 15?), it wasn't even as powerful as the 40 watt one in these machines and to use it required cut off switches on the doors to the room, room had to be light tight. I was willing to install the switches but there were other regulations that no one wanted to deal with.
There are videos on how to make those chinese 40 watt devices safer, basically do not trust the clear cover they put on them to block the wavelength of the laser completely, so cover it with something opaque, also installing some safety cut off switches to kill the laser if the cover is opened would be the minimum to do first. Also spend at least $100 on the proper glasses for the type of laser in the device (I think those machines are all C02 lasers). The low cost of the machines makes people think they may not use good filter material for the window looking into the chamber.
I also watched some videos where people put in flow sensors for the cooling water, that laser will kill itself if it's on and the water stops flowing.
One video also said to throw out the blower that comes with the thing, get a good high flow exhaust fan because you are burning what ever you put in the thing. With good dilution from good air flow wood should smell like someone using their fireplace, but plastic will smell terrible so the neighbors might complain.
Thatnks. I was definitely not planing on being anywhere near it when operating for fear for my eyes. But I did see a video of it actually operating and there was a lot of smoke. So even well vented it would be visible and likely get me in trouble with my landlord. So I think it's a no go for now. I would need to get a proper work space. In order to do that I would have to have it at one of my friends' houses or something.
I noticed someone on Thingiverse took the models of the long lost Duchamp chess set and modified it for easier 3D printing.
I had tried printing these years ago but with certain pieces the overhangs required supports that came up from the smooth base, that pretty much ruins the smoothness of the base unless you a lot of sanding afterwards.
But these remixes don't require any supports, and look very close to the original models.
Broke out my 1988 chess computer and scaled the pieces to fit it. Got white done, black pieces will print overnight tonight.
(https://www.science.widener.edu/~schultz/3dprinter/duchamp%20chess%20pieces.jpg)
Neat! :o
I'm a chess fan though I haven't played in a few years since I went to Mexico and taught a nephew there how to play
I haven't played in so long I have to set that board to the lowest level in order to win.
Found a very nice free chess program for Windows called Lucas Chess, has all kinds of tutoring and many different levels of opponents. Playing against the opponents for children is starting to get my skills back.
You would think when you buy a $700 digital piano it would come with something better than a $5 sustain pedal, but nope, from what I've seen even the ones twice as expensive are the same.
3D printing to the rescue:
(https://www.science.widener.edu/~schultz/3dprinter/sustainpedal.jpg)
I could buy one for $20 on Amazon but I may eventually get the wooden stand and 3 pedal unit for this thing.
Another piano related print, some brackets to link the stand I made to the piano.
Not really necessary but it's nice if you want to move the entire thing, without them when you lift on the piano it just comes off the stand.
(https://www.science.widener.edu/~schultz/3dprinter/pianostandbrackets.jpg)
I've been seriously thinking recently about finally getting a 3D printer. The Creality Ender series seems to be the best reviewed from the videos and Top 10 lists that I have found. If I'm going to get one I think I'd go a little upscale and get the Ender 5 Pro instead of the more typical Ender 3. Does anyone here have experience with them, or any suggestions?
The only drawback of those Creality printers is the lack of auto leveling, so you have to use the thumbscrews to get the bed level with the nozzle. Getting an even and well stuck first layer is just about the most important thing in 3D printing, so getting the bed perfectly level with the nozzle over the entire surface is vital.
It's certainly possible to do it by hand, it just takes a while and you have to check it before each print, a change in the bed height by 0.1 mm can be the difference between a good first layer and a bad one where the print falls off half way through, so you do have to check all the time. I did it for a while before switching to printers that have auto-leveling and would not want to go back.
Other than that I've seen good reviews of the Ender 3 printers, not as nice as a Prusa but they are half the price...
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on December 07, 2020, 09:54:26 PM
The only drawback of those Creality printers is the lack of auto leveling, so you have to use the thumbscrews to get the bed level with the nozzle. Getting an even and well stuck first layer is just about the most important thing in 3D printing, so getting the bed perfectly level with the nozzle over the entire surface is vital.
It's certainly possible to do it by hand, it just takes a while and you have to check it before each print, a change in the bed height by 0.1 mm can be the difference between a good first layer and a bad one where the print falls off half way through, so you do have to check all the time. I did it for a while before switching to printers that have auto-leveling and would not want to go back.
Other than that I've seen good reviews of the Ender 3 printers, not as nice as a Prusa but they are half the price...
I have heard about the leveling issues as well. Which one do you have that has the auto-leveling?
Quote from: Darth Geek on December 08, 2020, 08:35:09 AM
I have heard about the leveling issues as well. Which one do you have that has the auto-leveling?
The best printer I have is the Prusa MK3S. Got the kit, takes a minimum 3 or 4 hours to put it together. My other printer is one I cobbled together from various parts of other printer kits I had gotten years ago but since I got the Prusa at the start of the year I haven't used it once.
Drawback of getting a Prusa is they are in the Czech Republic, they price the kit so you don't pay import fees, but the pre-built printers are over that limit. Also if you need parts it can be a pain, but there are so many clones of the MK3 on Amazon you can get loads of non-critical parts there. I picked up some spare flexible build plates because stuff like flexible filament sticks so strongly that you often ruin the surface taking the part off, so I have good plates for stuff I want to look the best and beat up ones for printing flexible stuff.
Looking at the Creality stuff it seems the CR-6 SE has auto-leveling, bit more expensive than the Ender 3.
This guy on YouTube is trustworthy, I've never seen him say anything I didn't agree with, he is kind of not recommending the CR-6 right now but I didn't watch the entire thing:
Edit: If you don't need the build plate size of the MK3 or Ender 3 there is the Prusa Mini, seems to have the same quality as the MK3 but smaller and cheaper.
Thanks for the suggestions MartyS. I ended up getting the Creality Ender 5. I watched a few videos about the leveling process and it didn't seem that bad.
I'll get it next week while I'm on vacation at my parents and be able to assemble it and try it out while there.
At first I'll be just using PLA so I shouldn't have to enclose it or anything.
It will be interesting to see how much of an issue supports made from the same material are. I am used to getting parts done in the big industrial FDM machine we have at work and that uses dissolvable support material.
Quote from: Darth Geek on December 13, 2020, 09:30:17 AM
Thanks for the suggestions MartyS. I ended up getting the Creality Ender 5. I watched a few videos about the leveling process and it didn't seem that bad.
I'll get it next week while I'm on vacation at my parents and be able to assemble it and try it out while there.
At first I'll be just using PLA so I shouldn't have to enclose it or anything.
It will be interesting to see how much of an issue supports made from the same material are. I am used to getting parts done in the big industrial FDM machine we have at work and that uses dissolvable support material.
Great, good luck with it.
The very first time you level the bed can be tedious, as you move one corner the others change a little so there is a lot of going back and forth moving the nozzle to each corner. Once you have it dialed in you should only need minor adjustments that go much faster.
I don't have an enclosure and print PLA, PETG, and TPU without any problems. If you don't have a ventilated space those 3 don't smell bad while printing. PLA has a faint smell like cooking with hot oil, PETG I only smell faintly if the print takes more than 10 hours, TPU has a faint rubber smell.
I try real hard to design stuff not to need supports, I'd rather break something into multiple parts than have to use lots of supports. When you do have to use them how much of an issue they are depends mostly on the slicer and how it generates them. Since I started using the Prusa slicer I've found it's really good at generating supports that are easily removed, great thing about the Prusa slicer is the ability to put in zones where you can turn supports on and off. Cura is the other slicer that does a pretty good job with supports.
Other thing that gets overlooked is keeping your spools of filament dry. Some filaments are very sensitive to humidity in the air, PLA and PETG not so much but you still want to store them in a sealed container. Too much moisture in the filament will cause steam bubbles to form when the plastic is melted in the nozzle.
I use jumbo slider zip bags, big enough to put 2 spools in each one with a few large (100g) desiccant packs. For Ninjaflex I put one spool in a bag with several desiccant packs. A pack of those humidity indicator cards is pretty cheap, I put a card in each bag. I think I currently have 5 bags holding 8 spools of different color PLA and PETG, and one spool of black Ninjaflex.
This reminds me I should regenerate my packs, haven't done it since the spring.
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on December 13, 2020, 10:11:05 AM
Other thing that gets overlooked is keeping your spools of filament dry. Some filaments are very sensitive to humidity in the air, PLA and PETG not so much but you still want to store them in a sealed container. Too much moisture in the filament will cause steam bubbles to form when the plastic is melted in the nozzle.
I use jumbo slider zip bags, big enough to put 2 spools in each one with a few large (100g) desiccant packs. For Ninjaflex I put one spool in a bag with several desiccant packs. A pack of those humidity indicator cards is pretty cheap, I put a card in each bag. I think I currently have 5 bags holding 8 spools of different color PLA and PETG, and one spool of black Ninjaflex.
This reminds me I should regenerate my packs, haven't done it since the spring.
That is an excellent suggestion thank you. How big are the large slider zip bags you use? Gallon sized? I see some that are 24" X 20" as well.
Quote from: Darth Geek on December 13, 2020, 12:25:34 PM
That is an excellent suggestion thank you. How big are the large slider zip bags you use? Gallon sized? I see some that are 24" X 20" as well.
They are much bigger than gallon size and have thicker plastic, I get the jumbo slider storage bags at Target. I see from the website they are 2.5 gallon:
https://www.target.com/p/jumbo-2-5-gallon-slider-storage-bag-15ct-up-38-up-8482/-/A-15698327
The desiccant packs I get:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B082RJ1NJ1/
And the humidity cards:
https://smile.amazon.com/Dry-Premium-Humidity-Indicator-Reusable/dp/B01974FX42/
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on December 13, 2020, 01:13:23 PM
Quote from: Darth Geek on December 13, 2020, 12:25:34 PM
That is an excellent suggestion thank you. How big are the large slider zip bags you use? Gallon sized? I see some that are 24" X 20" as well.
They are much bigger than gallon size and have thicker plastic, I get the jumbo slider storage bags at Target. I see from the website they are 2.5 gallon:
https://www.target.com/p/jumbo-2-5-gallon-slider-storage-bag-15ct-up-38-up-8482/-/A-15698327
The desiccant packs I get:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B082RJ1NJ1/
And the humidity cards:
https://smile.amazon.com/Dry-Premium-Humidity-Indicator-Reusable/dp/B01974FX42/
Fantastic! Thank you very much.
I just got my Ender 5. It went together very easily. But I already ran into an issue. All the videos I have seen on how to level the bed say to go to the Bed Auto Leveling command under Prepare on the menu. But my menu doesn't have that as an option, so I don't know what to do. I see that the review videos are all from early 2019, so I think the software got upgraded since then. But I'm not sure how to level it then.
The way I always had to do it was manually.
Find what ever menu lets you control X, Y, Z. move the nozzle to one corner of the bed, put a piece of paper under the nozzle and very slowly move the nozzle down (Z) until there is just a little friction when you try and move the paper. Then you slowly go to the next corner without moving Z, as you go you constantly feel if the paper has the same friction, if you start to feel more friction (paper gets harder to move or gets pinched) stop and lower the corner of the bed you were heading towards, if you feel less friction don't do anything until you get to the corner, once at the corner adjust the screw in that corner until you get the same friction you had in the first corner. Continue to repeat this process for every corner, once you can move around to all for corners without needing to make any adjustments you have the bed level with the nozzle.
My first 3D print is coming along nicely as we speak. I hadn't noticed that the instructions themselves included the steps for bed leveling. And it was manual, as you described Marty. So it wasn't difficult.
So what am I supposed to do after I'm done with the machine for the day? I have seen differing opinions online. Do I have to remove the filament every time and clean the nozzle?
Quote from: Darth Geek on December 23, 2020, 02:06:35 PM
So what am I supposed to do after I'm done with the machine for the day? I have seen differing opinions online. Do I have to remove the filament every time and clean the nozzle?
If I know I'm going to print something the next day I don't bother removing the filament.
If it's going to be more than a couple of days I will remove it and put it in the ziplock bag with the desiccant.
If it's a filament like ninjaflex that grabs moisture from the air somewhat fast I'll put it back in the desiccant bag right after printing. Pretty much only nylon and TPU are that sensitive, PlA and PETG not so much.
As for cleaning the nozzle, most I ever do is use a brass brush to brush off any excess plastic when some builds up around the nozzle tip (obviously needs to be done when the nozzle is hot and the plastic all melty). I buy the cheap ones with wooden handles you normally find in the welding accessory area of Lowe's or Home Depot, $1 or $2 each.
Another useful tool for getting prints off the bed is a 3 or 4 inch wide paint scraper/wall scraper or sometimes called a tape knife. One of these things:
(https://images.homedepot-static.com/productImages/04cffc65-780b-4bf5-a59b-b5cbdd96cf31/svn/husky-paint-scrapers-dsx4f-64_1000.jpg)
My first print failed about 3/4 of the way through, so it looks like one of the demons in Constantine 2005:
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/132801556_4146788282002231_3155051975338493404_o.jpg?_nc_cat=103&ccb=2&_nc_sid=dbeb18&_nc_ohc=g6o9lqb6_84AX9yEAW4&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=f54bba2a3ba81b0fb01f3e78e343b423&oe=600B92E9)
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/132781001_4146788575335535_7215620210810229464_n.jpg?_nc_cat=108&ccb=2&_nc_sid=dbeb18&_nc_ohc=EKEc0LCv6PwAX8X4NfF&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=8386a24e563d61dca04663b730fe6222&oe=60095D68)
It was looking really good up until the fail.
Why did it fail? Did it pop off the bed? Does the C5 have a glass bed or a PEI one? People love glass for the smooth finish it gives but I've never wanted one because of how hard it is to get things to stick well. If it's a PEI sheet you should get really good adhesion, there are basically 2 reasons for failure on a PEI sheet:
One is fingerprints or other oils on the sheet, best way to do a normal cleaning is with some slightly soapy water, then a plain water wipe down, than an alcohol wipe down. Acetone (nail polish remover) can be used to make the PEI really "sticky" but should only be used a couple times a year if you want the PEI to last.
The other reason that applies to all beds is if the first layer isn't "squished" enough. If the printer doesn't have a setup option for calibrating the first layer height then you've got to do it manually. You start a print and stop it half way through the first layer and look at the result. You can find images online of what it should look like, then you have to adjust the first layer height. If there is no setting in the menus for it there will be a screw somewhere that manually sets the Z zero position. To get a properly squished first layer you would raise or lower the zero position. Being off by 0.1mm can be the difference between a good stick and a part that pops off during printing.
That is the other big advantage of having a probe, pretty much all printers that have a probe have a setting in the firmware that you just type in an offset for the first layer, the Prusa does it live, it starts a long bead that goes back and forth over the bed and while it's going you adjust the value until the bead has the correct amount of squish.
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on December 23, 2020, 11:06:52 PM
It was looking really good up until the fail.
Why did it fail? Did it pop off the bed? Does the C5 have a glass bed or a PEI one? People love glass for the smooth finish it gives but I've never wanted one because of how hard it is to get things to stick well. If it's a PEI sheet you should get really good adhesion, there are basically 2 reasons for failure on a PEI sheet:
One is fingerprints or other oils on the sheet, best way to do a normal cleaning is with some slightly soapy water, then a plain water wipe down, than an alcohol wipe down. Acetone (nail polish remover) can be used to make the PEI really "sticky" but should only be used a couple times a year if you want the PEI to last.
The other reason that applies to all beds is if the first layer isn't "squished" enough. If the printer doesn't have a setup option for calibrating the first layer height then you've got to do it manually. You start a print and stop it half way through the first layer and look at the result. You can find images online of what it should look like, then you have to adjust the first layer height. If there is no setting in the menus for it there will be a screw somewhere that manually sets the Z zero position. To get a properly squished first layer you would raise or lower the zero position. Being off by 0.1mm can be the difference between a good stick and a part that pops off during printing.
That is the other big advantage of having a probe, pretty much all printers that have a probe have a setting in the firmware that you just type in an offset for the first layer, the Prusa does it live, it starts a long bead that goes back and forth over the bed and while it's going you adjust the value until the bead has the correct amount of squish.
It was a bed adhesion issue. I looked into the Z level adjustment and I think I did it correctly. It was also a bed heat issue. For whatever reason even though I set my bed temp at 60 degrees it was going to 45 during the print and I think that's why it didn't stick. I reset it to 60 while it was printing and it has been staying there, and so far it is running the second print without a problem.
Yes, the print quality so far is fantastic with this Ender 5. The curvature of the surface looks great, and no stringing problems so far.
I'm pretty happy with it so far. There's just a lot for me to learn. Even just remembering where things are in the menus.
I am having a new issue. I first used the Creality PLA filament that came with the printer and did not have any stringing problems at all. Then I started using Labists brand PLA+ filament and suddenly it was stringing a lot. I tried various nozzle temperatures up and down and nothing stopped it. So are there certain filament brands that are best to avoid? Is this something more common to PLA+?
I had not heard of PLA+ before so had to look up what it is. Seems it's PLA with addatives, usually TPU mixed in to make the PLA softer.
Is the filament a lot softer than regular PLA? A bowden setup like the Creality uses does get worse as the filament gets softer, using the long tube between the extrusion gears and the hot end makes it hard to control if the filament has give. Think of it as trying to push spaghetti down a straw, when raw it's easy, as you cook it and it gets softer it will be more difficult. It can be done but requires a lot of trial and error with the settings.
I'm guessing the PLA+ is only slightly softer, how does it feel compared to the regular PLA? Does Creality have profiles for different filaments? PETG is slightly softer than PLA so you may get some clues looking at the differences between the PLA and PETG settings. Maybe see if the company that makes the filament has a website with suggested settings?
If you are on your own figuring out new settings the first thing to do is measure the diameter of the filament in a half dozen places and get an average. It could be that your batch of PLA+ is slightly larger and you are over extruding, if that is the case you just put in the new diameter in the slicer and it should take care of it. The next thing to experiment with is the retraction settings, the distance and speed of the retraction is more tricky to dial in with bowden vs. direct drive, so I can't help with that since all my experience is with direct drive. Typically you increase the retraction distance to reduce stringing, but too much retraction also reduces print quality and can leave tiny holes so it's a balance between stringing and print quality.
FYI: Very rubbery filaments like TPU you can't use retraction at all, and you just have to live with the stringing. So sometimes you just have to do a lot of post processing to clean up your prints.
Thanks Marty.
I am back to using PLA. And using features like Combing on the Cura slicer I am still having stringing problems when I make multiple one parts at one time. So for now I am sticking to one part at a time.
My printer uses a Bowden tube. But the Retraction setting on the Cura slicer is by default at 5mm, which seems pretty high to me and I don't know if I want to increase it. I am considering getting a Direct Drive but I know the extra weight of it moving around so fast can be hard on the motors and belts.
Quote from: Darth Geek on January 01, 2021, 09:04:06 PM
Thanks Marty.
I am back to using PLA. And using features like Combing on the Cura slicer I am still having stringing problems when I make multiple one parts at one time. So for now I am sticking to one part at a time.
My printer uses a Bowden tube. But the Retraction setting on the Cura slicer is by default at 5mm, which seems pretty high to me and I don't know if I want to increase it. I am considering getting a Direct Drive but I know the extra weight of it moving around so fast can be hard on the motors and belts.
Bowden setups usually have fairly high retraction values, I've seen numbers as high as 15 thrown around in other forums but don't pay much attention to them since I've never used a bowden extruder.
So that printer has the option to do direct drive? That's cool usually you are stuck with one or the other. It's not so much being hard on the motors and belts, it's driving the extra weight can cause artifacts in the print if the drive belt system wasn't designed for that much moving mass. So you might get ringing or other surface artifacts, and to get rid of them people may use too much tension on the belts and that can damage the pulleys and motor bearings.
Printing multiple parts can be a pain sometimes, and you never get as good a surface as printing one at a time, I only do it for mechanical parts where I don't care about the surface finish (and can cram them close together so the print time isn't a lot longer for the group vs. single parts). For figures and model parts I always do one at a time to get the best looking surface.
3D printing does require loads of patience, there's lots of test printing, and things take forever to print if you want them to look good. People get multiple printers just to be able to print more stuff per day. Technically I have 3 printers, but one I'll probably never used again since it can only print PLA and is small, my big home built printer I may use if I need something bigger than my Prusa can print, but I haven't used it since getting the Prusa. I have thought about doing a redesign on my big printer, using the Prusa I could print better parts for it, but since I haven't had a reason to use the thing I haven't felt like trying to design a new extruder and gantry.
I've been doing a lot of good prints and learning a lot about the settings. I've had a lot of success, although I still need to do more to get proper dimensional accuracy for parts that have to fit together. I have also started to notice that, even though PLA is not supposed to be effected by moisture, the material that has been out longer has more bed adhesion issues. So I have ordered the bags and desiccant that you suggested and I think it will help.
Noticed some 3D models for clarinet reeds on Thingiverse, been trying them out.
Very tricky getting the thinnest part to print nicely, had to play with the first layer thickness and other settings. Normally you use a thick first layer and squish it a bit to get it to stick well, but in this case it's vital to have the first layer thin so the leading edge of the reed is correct. Since it's a wide thin print it doesn't need to stick strongly.
PETG is a bit soft, great for low notes but doesn't sound great for high ones, now that I have the settings figured out I'll have to try some in PLA and see if that makes the higher notes sound more like a natural cane reed.
(https://www.science.widener.edu/~schultz/3dprinter/3Dreed.jpg)
Marty have you ever had an issue with Marlin, the software on the 3D printer, having problems? Ever since I've had it the Print From TF menu for selecting the gcode has been really slow. But now it seems to completely freeze up when I go into that menu.
Edit: Odd, now when I try it again it worked okay (that menu is still slow though)
I've never had a problem like that.
Standard tips would be to unplug it for a few minutes to see if that clears it, or look to see if there is a firmware update for your printer.
Firmware can get corrupted, so even if there isn't a new update flashing the same version it already has can fix issues sometime. On my earliest printer it stopped recognizing an SD card once and re-flashing the firmware fixed it.
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on February 13, 2021, 02:26:39 PM
I've never had a problem like that.
Standard tips would be to unplug it for a few minutes to see if that clears it, or look to see if there is a firmware update for your printer.
Firmware can get corrupted, so even if there isn't a new update flashing the same version it already has can fix issues sometime. On my earliest printer it stopped recognizing an SD card once and re-flashing the firmware fixed it.
Thanks. The version of Marlin on mine is 1.1.6.3 (I think). There is a Marlin 2.0 but from what I am seeing it is mainly for 32 bit boards. I've been thinking of upgrading my board anyway to get the silent one and I think those are 32 bit.
The biggest printing issue I am still having is very noticeable seams on round parts and the occasional blob. I don't think I have overextrusion because the rest of my print looks great, it doesn't look like the pictures of overextrusion I see when I look online.
I was thinking of going to a direct drive. This is the one I found:
https://www.banggood.com/Upgraded-24v-Short-range-Reed-Upgraded-Drive-All-Metal-Hotend-Extruder-Kit-for-Creality3D-Ender-5-or-Ender-5S-3D-Printer-Part-p-1649997.html?cur_warehouse=CN&rmmds=search
It seems like a direct drive should take care of these issues (or at least minimize them).
I just noticed the ender 5 has a somewhat crappy part cooling fan. Maybe upgrade that first and see if that solves your problems.
Check out this video:
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/152769686_4303241063023618_4806040332374879401_o.jpg?_nc_cat=100&ccb=3&_nc_sid=8bfeb9&_nc_ohc=NaOt2nnRMjQAX-gKA5h&_nc_ht=scontent-iad3-1.xx&oh=07da0eb62b57c577db34ecca0d3f7482&oe=60566952)
I printed the Jet Engine model by Catiav5ftw on Thingverse.
It has a few print issues, but they are mostly not noticeable in this picture unless you look close.
Suddenly the X axis stepper motor isn't working. I'll have to try switching the wires to find out if it's the signal from the board or the motor itself. Seems kind of early for the motor to completely die on me though.
I have noticed some roughness of the surface on some of my most recent prints, so I don't know if it's because the motor was having a problem or if it's an over/underextrusion issue. I did buy a direct drive extruder kit, so I'll try that out. Have to fix this motor issue first though.
Very first thing to check is if the grub screw holding the pulley has loosened up, is the motor turning but simply not moving the belt?
Feel the motor to see if it's overheating. How does the control board adjust motor current on your system?
If you plug in a different motor and it runs, feel that motor to see if it's getting hot.
You can over heat steppers and they will stop working when hot, they will start to skip steps a lot as they get too hot. If you get them way too hot, say over 80°C, the magnets inside will suffer permanent damage.
Can you still feel the steps when turning the motor by hand (power off and take the belt off to feel it easier)? If you don't feel the magnet poles locking and unlocking any more the magnets have been over heated.
Possible causes are:
Stepper motor had a flaw and died prematurely.
Board putting out too much current and killing the stepper (feel motor to test).
Stepper controller on the board has died (plug in another motor to test).
Too high a belt tension can cause a stepper to overheat, or wear out the bearings, if it's hard to turn by hand with the belt and power off then the bearings have worn out.
Oh, and if it is the grub screw when you tighten it back up make sure it's on the flat part of the motor shaft, if the pulley has 2 grub screws tighten the one on the flat first.
Thank you for the suggestions, Marty. I will try that out tonight after work.
Ha, it's been days since I did anything with it because I wanted to wait for the weekend when I could devote hours during the day to deal with it...and it turned out to be a really obvious loose wire connection to the motor.
I had seen some people had 3D printed cable guiding "chain" systems, so I think I will do that to prevent the connections coming loose again.
That's not something I would have thought of, do the motors on your printer have plugs on them for the wires? I've only used motors that have wires coming out of them so the only way to have a bad connection at the motor would be a broken wire.
Those wire chains are cool, I've always just used the wrap around sheaths. A bunch of years ago I bought a spool of 3mm PLA filament by mistake and didn't notice until I went to use it months later so I couldn't return it (I also didn't notice the size until I opened the sealed bag). But it's great as a strain relief and wire bundle support, I used it on my big home built printer. Just a a length of it in with the wire bundle and wrap it all up and the bundle is now stiffer and moves in a nice arc similar to what a chain does.
This week I got spools of ASA and polycarbonate (PC). ASA is great for stuff you want to put in the sun. PC is super strong and heat resistant.
Printing with the hot end at 270°C and the bed at 115°C are some serious temperatures. So far the ASA has been printing just as nicely as PETG, but the PC has been more of a challenge. I want to print the air nozzle for my Prusa out of PC so I should never have to replace it, I'm on my 2nd attempt now, first one I turned off the cooling fan as recommended, but after watching some videos on PC I am now running it slowly and faster during bridging. Parts without the fan on are the strongest, but you get better prints with it on a little. The cooling air duct doesn't need to be strong, but it does need an accurate shape. It's about half way done now and already I see less stringing. The air nozzles I've been printing with PETG start to sag after about 20 hours of printing, shouldn't have that problem with PC.
The ASA has a weak hot plastic smell, the PC has much more smell, I wouldn't have tried them if I didn't have the printer in the basement.
I got my Raspberry Pi 4 set up with Octoprint (Octopi).
So far I like it, gives nice feedback of the printer during a print, I just wish the camera stream was a larger image.
Not sure I would spend the money on a pi just for this, it's not that much better feedback than the old smartphone webcam I was using before. If I had a printer with a crappy interface maybe it would be more useful, but the Prusa has a good interface.
Also it doesn't support 2 printers at the same time, so I'll have to reconfigure it if I want to use it with my other printer. It will be way more useful with that printer because that one doesn't have an LCD screen on it. But I haven't used that printer once since getting my Prusa almost a year ago.
The Pi 4 with a printed camera mount stuck on it:
(https://www.science.widener.edu/~schultz/3dprinter/Octopi2.jpg)
Here it is printing:
(https://www.science.widener.edu/~schultz/3dprinter/Octopi1.jpg)
Many years ago I got a palm sized screwdriver that held 4 bits in the handle, it was cheap and fell apart in less than a year, but I always like the size and shape of it. Since I just got into printing with polycarbonate I now could print something strong enough to replicate it.
Used some tiny steel screws and 2 magnets scavenged out of tiny motors to hold the top on.
(https://www.science.widener.edu/~schultz/3dprinter/smalldriver1.jpg)
(https://www.science.widener.edu/~schultz/3dprinter/smalldriver2.jpg)
(https://www.science.widener.edu/~schultz/3dprinter/smalldriver3.jpg)
Marty, I was just wondering how you store your filament rolls? I have been using two of these shelves:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009AG2WQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(https://images-cn.ssl-images-amazon.cn/images/I/717YNjzauML._AC_SX679_.jpg)
The size is perfect, it fits even 1 Kg spools well. But it's quite rickety. And I'd like to get something even taller.
Quote from: Darth Geek on March 23, 2021, 07:51:51 PM
Marty, I was just wondering how you store your filament rolls? I have been using two of these shelves:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009AG2WQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(https://images-cn.ssl-images-amazon.cn/images/I/717YNjzauML._AC_SX679_.jpg)
The size is perfect, it fits even 1 Kg spools well. But it's quite rickety. And I'd like to get something even taller.
I have these exact things to store my dvds. Rickety is a good way to describe it. I never feared they would fall over though. For the price, you probably can't do better. They come with wall mounts to make them less unstable too.
Just realized when I tried to reply to this a few days ago it was the start of the forum issues and it never got posted.
I have my printers on a workbench in the basement, the workbench has a shelf under it and I just stack the spools of filament there. Looks funky with stacks of big ziplock bags with filament and desiccant in them but it's the basement so I don't care.
Woohoo! I finished making ALL 28 of the different McQ Heads for the different Quiptracks so far:
(https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/165593224_4414015625279494_8728660371078698175_o.jpg?_nc_cat=105&ccb=1-3&_nc_sid=8bfeb9&_nc_ohc=O5BCPEc-70YAX9Fcxm4&_nc_ht=scontent-lga3-1.xx&oh=77745d38a1c57ec254b58c52f9afa580&oe=60835DC0)
(https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/166197443_4414015535279503_6059231969289361984_o.jpg?_nc_cat=109&ccb=1-3&_nc_sid=8bfeb9&_nc_ohc=wF8kGF3LdDkAX9EkWdB&_nc_ht=scontent-lga3-1.xx&oh=783e429c475e53599c09aa797c72fb3a&oe=60861CEA)
(https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/165663271_4414015431946180_7011548811561990691_o.jpg?_nc_cat=108&ccb=1-3&_nc_sid=8bfeb9&_nc_ohc=eMUj6tZHt9AAX_BsTKg&_nc_ht=scontent-lga3-1.xx&oh=3dd9f04d8205230c814b9a73ff68d9ee&oe=6085BA6E)
(https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/165894057_4414015331946190_1124921254362706916_o.jpg?_nc_cat=107&ccb=1-3&_nc_sid=8bfeb9&_nc_ohc=dTlsY9bNUJ0AX-6Jh7g&_nc_ht=scontent-lga3-1.xx&oh=663f17f2d08e08676a1f307d793d3251&oe=6084C125)
(https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/166401800_4414015158612874_558759519656803165_o.jpg?_nc_cat=108&ccb=1-3&_nc_sid=8bfeb9&_nc_ohc=PAl8ye7b5IgAX86PScH&_nc_ht=scontent-lga3-1.xx&oh=008a7559c89e7fe74d13604fb4760530&oe=6086A21D)
(https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/165574227_4414015071946216_1080134215328323589_o.jpg?_nc_cat=110&ccb=1-3&_nc_sid=8bfeb9&_nc_ohc=5CK1eyH7avAAX_JNDgA&_nc_ht=scontent-lga3-1.xx&oh=ccabbaf892cb3a3d91fed3cfbeb49289&oe=6086C521)
The biggest problem I am having right now is "zits". I have gold decorative buttons on a Dalek figure I am making for my friend and they keep coming out like shit.
I still need to use the kit I got to convert my Ender 5 to a Direct Drive Extruder. Will that help with this issue?
That depends on the type of "zit".
If they are blobs of extra plastic randomly on the surface then better control of the extrusion might help avoid extra plastic coming out. Also check if there is simply some extra plastic that has built up on the nozzle and randomly falls off. A small brass brush used on the nozzle when hot before each print can help with that. If they make a silicone sock for your hot end one of those can also help, I put one on last summer and it does a great job keeping the nozzle clean, it has greatly reduced the tiny bits of burnt plastic that sometimes show up on the surface of a print.
If there are tiny holes in the surface that sometimes make vertical lines that is an issue with the starting and stopping of the extrusion on each layer. Sometimes slicer settings to randomize the start position of each layer can help, or some slicers have a setting to force all starts to happen in a location you don't see (sometimes called seam position). Also changing when it does inner and outer layers can reduce those holes, you normally want outer perimeters put down after inner ones, and go slower on the outermost perimeter.
Direct drive may help with that also, especially if there was a retraction before a new layer start so plastic might not be flowing fast enough before a layer starts, leading to a larger than normal hole at the start of each layer.
And the other cause of bumpy surfaces: if they are small objects or object with some small sections, there might not be enough cool down time between layers and things can look quite ugly. A few ways to help with that are run the fan at 100% for the entire print, try dropping the hot end temperature a few degrees, and set a minimum layer time in the slicer. If you set it to something like 30 seconds depending on the slicer it will either pause and wait for one layer to cool down if it's done in less than 30 seconds or it will just slow down so every small layer takes 30 seconds.
Thanks for the suggestions Marty. I looked at it closer and it's actually indented into the plastic not sticking out of it. Turns out it is the Z-Seam. It's a contoured surface with no edges, so it was just putting them randomly and causing them. I specified the alignment and they are now a line. So now I know what it is. The problem is that these parts are decorative and you can see all around them, so I want to get rid of the z seam entirely.
It can be difficult to get rid of those seams.
One way is to use much thinner layers and do not line up the seams, print times go way up but with very thin layers one layer can melt into the previous one more and fill in those holes.
There is also vase mode, but you can only use that on single wall objects.
Turning off retraction can also help, if the filament is never pulled back it's less likely to leave a hole at the start of the next layer. This can lead to more stringing but you can sand off strings easier than filling in holes.
If you have a lot of small objects it is a pain to print them one at a time, but the quality of the walls does improve quite a bit if the head can stay on one part during the print, especially if you turn off retraction.
Well that sucks!
I started getting severe underextrusion issues today on a part. It was one that I had run before so I knew the gcode was okay, so it wasn't the speed or retraction. I was getting filament grinding on the extruder end so I figured I might have a nozzle clog or something. I found a video talking about that and they told me how to do a "cold pull" to get any debris out of the nozzle. I took the Bowden tube connector out of the Hot End, but the tube itself wouldn't come out of the fitting. I was able to do the cold pull all right and there was a little stuff in there, so that probably was the problem. But I could not get the tube out of either of the fittings. The hot end fitting would go up the tube but it would NOT go closer to the end. So because it moved up while I was taking it out I couldn't get the hot end fitting back in the hot end. And since the extruder fitting wouldn't come off either I couldn't just run it up and out the other end.
I was planning on going to a Direct Drive anyway, but this forced my hand. I had to cut the tube in half so I could get the hot end fitting off in the only direction it would go. And even with the tube cut I had to really yank with pliers to get the tube out of the extruder end fitting!
So I really hope this Direct Drive conversion works because my Bowden Tube is destroyed. All because I was trying to clean it.
Those push-pull fittings can be a royal pain to deal with. Sometimes they lock in place so tight it takes 3 hands to get the tube out. A good one you can easily push in the plastic ring around the tubing and then pull the tubing out, a "medium" one you have to push the plastic ring in very hard and push the tubing in first then pull it out, and the crappy ones you mess with the plastic ring until it breaks and you are screwed...
Now that I have a direct drive my biggest problem is "ghosting", and particularly the corners being bulged. Also with ghosting the layer to layer isn't as smooth as it was before. I've already lowered the wall speed from 40 mm/s to 25 mm/s, and I adjusted the acceleration and jerk settings.
That's to be expected, direct drive has more mass so you can't move it as quickly as a bowden, belts stretch more and you get more vibration so you've got to slow things down when changing direction.
I added vibration dampers to the stepper motors, flexible feet that the machine sits on, and tightened the belts a little. I'm making a bunch of the XYZ test blocks to see how jerk settings and acceleration effects things.
I'm also thinking about putting in TL Smoothers.
I was always doing that kind of thing, making adjustments and doing mods, the darn Prusa has been so good it hasn't needed anything except a better part cooling fan shroud...
Aaaaand that didn't do anything. 500 mm/s/s to 1500 mm/s/s acceleration and 5 mm/s to 10 mm/s jerk. Literally no noticeable difference in the 20 X 20 XYZ block.
The flat surface seems to be okay, no blobs or anything. It's still the edges being bulged. And the layers being not quite lined up at each point of change in the design features.
I've never found acceleration to make much difference, but jerk settings usually do.
Since you made the numbers higher did you notice more vibration that can lead to more ghosting? I thought you were trying to get rid of ghosting? Lower numbers let the printer settle after an abrupt change in direction and reduce ghosting. The value for jerk is how fast it accelerates out of sharp corners.
Could be that the stepper motor was sized for bowden and is under powered for driving the mass of a direct drive head, if that's the case the only option is to print slower (or get a stronger motor).
What do you mean by edges being bulged? Is it over extruding? Did you calibrate the new direct drive head? Mark the filament with a piece of tape something like 100mm from the head, tell it to extrude 50 mm, then measure to see if it did move 50.
This is the edge bulging issue:
(https://content.invisioncic.com/ultimake/monthly_2018_02/Cube_40mms.jpg.965f9092b3298d676f9f39b6027c10ab.jpg)
The Print Speed is 80 mm/s, but I slowed the Wall speed to 25mm/s to help the outer skin look better.
You'll have to experiment with the jerk and acceleration settings to stop the head from overshooting or over extruding on the corner. Some printers combine the settings so you have to mess with both, some treat them independently.
If you set them higher and higher and the bulge gets worse, then it's overshooting the corner. If you set them lower and lower and the bulge gets worse the head is pausing too long at the corner and over extruding.
Over extruding will make a bulge all around the corner, overshooting will make a P shape with the bulge only on one side of the corner.
No need to print a full cube for testing, a few millimeters high is all you need to see the results of each change. Make a change, do a print, tape that square to a sheet of paper with the jerk and acceleration settings written on it and repeat with different settings, you should be able to zero in on the best setting after 4 or 5 tests.
If nothing helps then it's a limitation of the hardware, belts might be cheap and stretching more than they should, motor is too weak and doesn't have the start/stop power needed, slight flex in the frame when the head does a fast 180, etc...
Thinking about the motor reminds me that you should also check the tightness of the set screws on the pulleys, they are probably OK but even a tiny bit of play can cause issues like this.
Been 3D printing lots of stuff for my mini-lathe.
Found files on Thingiverse for all the plastic gears plus larger versions. Tried out the 100 tooth gear tonight and it works great, only problem is I can't put the cover back on with it on there.
I'll try the 90 tooth version and if the cover fits with one I'll try 2, that should give the same reduction as one 100.
(https://www.science.widener.edu/~schultz/temp/100toothgear.jpg)
The stock setup is: 20:80:20:80 for a reduction of 1:16
With that 100 tooth gear it was 20:80:20:100 giving 1:20
If 2 90s will fit that would be 20:90:20:90 giving 1:20.25
These are the same gears used for cutting threads, the lathe comes with a bunch of different sizes, so it's nice to know I can print new ones if one breaks, a set of metal gears costs over $100. The reason I want to try larger gears is to slow down the feed rate to get nicer surface finish.
Also made a dial indicator holder for the tool post, this is the 3rd one I printed, downloaded one that was just a little too big for my post to grab it, then designed my own that didn't quite work, so redesigned it and this one works:
(https://www.science.widener.edu/~schultz/temp/dialindicatorholder.jpg)
And this one also took a few attempts. The way this compound feed works is a terrible design, the metal dial is what does the work of pushing the slide when you are moving in, way too much surface area and it binds up. I made a brass bushing that does the work much better but didn't want to modify the original dial in case I switch to using ball bearings. So I 3D printed a new dial. First one I used sharpie in the grooves and that wasn't great. So I made the groves a little deeper and filled them with epoxy, then used the lathe cut the dial down until the black groves had good edges.
(https://www.science.widener.edu/~schultz/temp/compoundfeeddial.jpg)
I printed two 90 tooth gears and one fits but not 2, one of the bolts that holds the slider for adjusting to different size gears rubs against the larger 90 tooth gear. The cover fits on with the one 90 tooth gear so that's nice.
If I ever need a really slow feed rate I did find that a 100 and 90 will fit, just can't put the cover on.
Well I thought I was done 3D printing stuff for the lathe but the size of the hand wheel was bugging me, way too big for this tiny lathe, so I designed a smaller one and it has a much better feel to it when moving the carriage:
(https://www.science.widener.edu/~schultz/temp/handwheel.jpg)
Just the last few weeks I have suddenly started having the worst trouble with really bad rippling (also called "ghosting" or "ringing"). I have made sure might my belts are at a good tightness, I even added belt tensioners to adjust them. I just replaced my X axis stepper motor and no change. I have the Y axis on order (for some reason the 42-40 dual shaft that the Ender 5 uses on the Y is almost impossible to find). I have checked my rollers and they are smooth and at a good tightness on the crossbars. I have vibration isolator feet on it. And this is an Ender 5, so the frame is nice and rigid.
The thing is, I am getting the rippling now with the SAME GCODE files that I was using before and did not get rippling, so I know that it is NOT in my slicer settings! But most of the suggestions I find when I search for it are all about those settings (which I'm already doing in my slicer settings anyway).
One other thing that started happening at the same time that I hadn't seen before was on long runs I get layer shift near the end. Again, my belts aren't the problem. But that layer shifting could be caused by the stepper motor controllers overheating and stalling for a little to cause the shift. Could the motherboard be going bad and that is causing my rippling too?
Check for build up on the pulleys, if the groves on the stepper motor pulleys get filled with gunk they don't grip the belts as well as they should.
Double check the tightness of all fasteners, screws can come loose after many hours of printing, especially the screws on the stepper motor pulleys, but also check the frame screws to see if any of them may have come a little lose.
If you have been printing a lot belts do wear out, if you have checked everything else the ringing could be caused by worn out belts, a meter of belt isn't that expensive, I keep extra on hand.
As for the layer shift near the end of a long run, is this happening when the room is warmer due to the heat wave? Most likely it is a temperature issue, you can put heat sinks on the stepper motors, or put a cheap PC fan blowing on the controller board. I would not think the ringing would be related to temperature but if it started at the same time perhaps it could be.
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on August 16, 2021, 07:25:40 AM
Check for build up on the pulleys, if the groves on the stepper motor pulleys get filled with gunk they don't grip the belts as well as they should.
Double check the tightness of all fasteners, screws can come loose after many hours of printing, especially the screws on the stepper motor pulleys, but also check the frame screws to see if any of them may have come a little lose.
If you have been printing a lot belts do wear out, if you have checked everything else the ringing could be caused by worn out belts, a meter of belt isn't that expensive, I keep extra on hand.
As for the layer shift near the end of a long run, is this happening when the room is warmer due to the heat wave? Most likely it is a temperature issue, you can put heat sinks on the stepper motors, or put a cheap PC fan blowing on the controller board. I would not think the ringing would be related to temperature but if it started at the same time perhaps it could be.
Thanks. There is a little build up in the grooves of the pulleys, so I will clean that off. I also got new Gates belts which are supposed to be better.
I want to replace the tiny motherboard cooling fan with a bigger one. I got a nice 92mm Noctua fan and modified my bottom plate to fit it. But now I'm having the issue that I don't seem to be getting power out of the wires for the fan. I cut the existing ones to remove the original fan. And I stripped away the ends so I could attach it to the new fan (with a Buck Converter to reduce the voltage from the printer's 24V to the 12V the Noctua Fan uses). Unfortunately I had the wires exposed while the machine was on and they must have touched because they made a spark at one point. Now when I turn the machine on and hook the wires to a voltmeter I don't get any reading. Is it possible I burned out that part of the motherboard?
Quote from: Darth Geek on August 21, 2021, 08:08:23 PM
Unfortunately I had the wires exposed while the machine was on and they must have touched because they made a spark at one point. Now when I turn the machine on and hook the wires to a voltmeter I don't get any reading. Is it possible I burned out that part of the motherboard?
On my Prusa board there are fuses, they use the little plastic automotive type, if your board has them look for them, hopefully they put a fuse in for that fan.
If there is no fuse for the fan circuit you probably blew out a component on the board. That's the hard way to learn not to leave stripped wires flopping around with the power on.
If the board still works for everything else you can get 24V directly off the power supply to run the fan.
How long is it supposed to take to flash the firmware? I put the firmware.bin file on the SD card (removed other files) and turned the machine on with it in. It has been a blank screen for over ten minutes. I don't dare turn it off. Is it still trying to process? Will it hurt it if I turn it off?
I know the new board works because I turned it on and it was fine, it just thought the machine was an Ender 3 by default. And I made sure to switch all the connections one at a time to the new board so I got all the wires correct.
I don't know about your board but just about all the electronics I've ever flashed the longest I've seen it take is probably about 3 minutes.
If it's been over 15 minutes it's either bricked or hopefully just stuck in a reboot cycle. Pull the SD card and cycle the power, hope it comes back. Did it ever give a message that it was doing an update, usually they put some kind of message on the display.
Both of my printers don't allow flashing from SD, you have to connect a computer via USB to do it.
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on September 01, 2021, 05:41:48 PM
I don't know about your board but just about all the electronics I've ever flashed the longest I've seen it take is probably about 3 minutes.
If it's been over 15 minutes it's either bricked or hopefully just stuck in a reboot cycle. Pull the SD card and cycle the power, hope it comes back. Did it ever give a message that it was doing an update, usually they put some kind of message on the display.
Both of my printers don't allow flashing from SD, you have to connect a computer via USB to do it.
After half an hour of nothing I turned it off. Took out the SD card and turned it back on, also nothing. Completely blank screen. Put the SD card back in and turned it on, left it running for over an hour and nothing.
Any idea what I did wrong? The articles I read said that sometimes doing this with SD cards over 32Gb can be an issue, but this one was only 8Gb.
And what do you mean bricked? Do I have to buy a whole new motherboard?
Quote from: Darth Geek on September 01, 2021, 10:00:17 PM
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on September 01, 2021, 05:41:48 PM
I don't know about your board but just about all the electronics I've ever flashed the longest I've seen it take is probably about 3 minutes.
If it's been over 15 minutes it's either bricked or hopefully just stuck in a reboot cycle. Pull the SD card and cycle the power, hope it comes back. Did it ever give a message that it was doing an update, usually they put some kind of message on the display.
Both of my printers don't allow flashing from SD, you have to connect a computer via USB to do it.
After half an hour of nothing I turned it off. Took out the SD card and turned it back on, also nothing. Completely blank screen. Put the SD card back in and turned it on, left it running for over an hour and nothing.
Any idea what I did wrong? The articles I read said that sometimes doing this with SD cards over 32Gb can be an issue, but this one was only 8Gb.
And what do you mean bricked? Do I have to buy a whole new motherboard?
Unfortunately that may be the case, see if you can find any support sites that say if people have found ways to recover from a failed flash. Sometimes there are programs you can use on a PC connected to the board that get the board to boot and then get a flash to work.
Are you sure you had the correct firmware file for that particular board? Loading the wrong firmware is a sure way to kill a board. A lot of hardware like this doesn't do any kind of checking, it will replace the firmware with whatever you put on the card even if it's wrong or damaged. You have to be careful about revisions, version B of a board might need a different firmware than version A.
This is always the danger of flashing firmware, if something goes wrong and the board can't even boot the board is dead. A power surge or failure during a flash is a sure way to kill a board. For expensive stuff I will sometimes plug it into a UPS just to be safe from a power failure.
Was making something out of brass and brass being brass it grabbed the tool and brought the lathe to a halt, busting off a tooth on the high-low gear.
So I downloaded a 3D model of one and printed it in polycarbonate, probably stronger than the original plastic one.
If this one ever breaks I'll go ahead and spend the $70 and get a set of metal ones.
Took about 6 hours to print, and since this gear is the one you have to completely tear the lathe apart to replace it that took a good 3 to 4 hours.
(https://www.science.widener.edu/~schultz/temp/3D%20printed%20hi%20low%20gear.jpg)
Good thing it wasn't a rudimentary lathe :P
Wow that sux though.. Looks like a great replacement you made.
I found out that the EZFirmware .bin file is only for their brand of board, which I am not using, I have a Creality brand board. So I contacted Creality and found out that they do have the firmware files for their board on their site (other places had said they didn't, and I didn't see them when I was looking). So I got the official firmware and will try flashing that.
What's even funnier is that in the meantime I had decided to put the old board back in and just try hooking the fan up to the power input so it would run all the time. I had everything set up and just out of curiosity I tried using my new voltmeter on the progs I thought were dead. Turns out they are fine. There was nothing wrong with the motherboard, my old voltmeter was just not working. So all of this was unnecessary.
There are still advantages to using the new 4.2.7 board anyway. So I will try to flash the new firmware to it, adn if that works i will use it. But if not I still have the old board I can use.
It does suck when your test equipment fails you. Over the years I've noticed the really cheap meters tend to do that, they have poor connections for the leads and other issues. I haven't seen those issues with meters in the $50 to $80 range. I've got one expensive Fluke meter at work and that has never let me down.
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on September 04, 2021, 03:33:39 PM
It does suck when your test equipment fails you. Over the years I've noticed the really cheap meters tend to do that, they have poor connections for the leads and other issues. I haven't seen those issues with meters in the $50 to $80 range. I've got one expensive Fluke meter at work and that has never let me down.
The one I had was probably twenty years old or more, my Dad gave it to me a long time ago. I got a new one for about $50 so that should last me plenty of time.
Marty, you were right about the residue on the belt pulleys. I replaced the current belts today with Gates belts that are supposed to be a better brand. And when I did I made sure to clean out the pulleys. There was a lot of residue in them. I don't know if that was the real cause of my rippling problem, but it does indicate that the belts that came with the machine were falling apart, probably a cheap brand.
After replacing the belts and the X and Z stepper motors I do seem to still have a little ghosting/rippling, but less than I did before. I think if I do get the 4.2.7 motherboard working that has TL smoothers built into it so that may improve it as well.
I like reading this thread for two reasons: 3D printing is cool and I want one someday, but more importantly, this thread constantly provides perfect examples of how I do not have time to do all the tinkering and troubleshooting necessary to run a 3D printer. Just don't have time at all. So thank you for illustrating that for me.
Well on the positive side I was able to get the new 4.2.7 board flashed with the firmware from Creality. And it works surprisingly well quieting the motors and they seems to be running very smoothly. However, for some reason the extruder motor is now reversed direction rotation, so it doesn't feed filament when printing it pulls it out of the hot end. This is very bizarre and I can't print anything without fixing it. I never reversed the direction of the extruder before so I don't know why it would be different now.
Most of the solutions I find online are about changing the programming, but I don't know how to do that, I'm not a programmer. And I hesitate to change the wires for fear of screwing something up.
To reverse a stepper motor all you have to do is plug it in reversed, so just flip the connector 180° and that should solve it.
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on September 06, 2021, 01:48:43 PM
To reverse a stepper motor all you have to do is plug it in reversed, so just flip the connector 180° and that should solve it.
The connector can't go in reversed. And it's six wires so I don't think it would work anyway if it could.
Quote from: Darth Geek on September 06, 2021, 07:08:19 PM
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on September 06, 2021, 01:48:43 PM
To reverse a stepper motor all you have to do is plug it in reversed, so just flip the connector 180° and that should solve it.
The connector can't go in reversed. And it's six wires so I don't think it would work anyway if it could.
Then you will have to find a software setting, hopefully it's in a menu somewhere, otherwise you may have to resort to connecting a computer and using something like pronterface to enter M codes directly into the firmware. Going that route you would probably have to flip a number from 0 to 1 or 1 to -1, something like that, then use the proper M code to save the changes so it doesn't revert when you turn the power off.
Not sure an extruder really needs a 6 wire stepper, but 6 wire and 4 wire are normally wired similarly and can be reversed by turning the connector, the center tap on each coil is just for adding more power to give more torque, but if yours are keyed that's not an option. They do that to make it easier for people not to put them in backwards, but at times like this it would be so much easier to just swap the leads vs. hunting down a firmware setting.
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on September 06, 2021, 09:42:49 PM
Quote from: Darth Geek on September 06, 2021, 07:08:19 PM
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on September 06, 2021, 01:48:43 PM
To reverse a stepper motor all you have to do is plug it in reversed, so just flip the connector 180° and that should solve it.
The connector can't go in reversed. And it's six wires so I don't think it would work anyway if it could.
Then you will have to find a software setting, hopefully it's in a menu somewhere, otherwise you may have to resort to connecting a computer and using something like pronterface to enter M codes directly into the firmware. Going that route you would probably have to flip a number from 0 to 1 or 1 to -1, something like that, then use the proper M code to save the changes so it doesn't revert when you turn the power off.
Not sure an extruder really needs a 6 wire stepper, but 6 wire and 4 wire are normally wired similarly and can be reversed by turning the connector, the center tap on each coil is just for adding more power to give more torque, but if yours are keyed that's not an option. They do that to make it easier for people not to put them in backwards, but at times like this it would be so much easier to just swap the leads vs. hunting down a firmware setting.
Interesting. I just got an email response from Creality helpdesk and they directed me to this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ms-rLplPOv8
Apparently switching the wires on the connector is surprisingly easy. I will have to try that tonight. It would certainly be preferrable to trying to edit the .bin file or recompiling the Configuration.h file.
Quote from: Darth Geek on September 07, 2021, 10:17:36 AM
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on September 06, 2021, 09:42:49 PM
Quote from: Darth Geek on September 06, 2021, 07:08:19 PM
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on September 06, 2021, 01:48:43 PM
To reverse a stepper motor all you have to do is plug it in reversed, so just flip the connector 180° and that should solve it.
The connector can't go in reversed. And it's six wires so I don't think it would work anyway if it could.
Then you will have to find a software setting, hopefully it's in a menu somewhere, otherwise you may have to resort to connecting a computer and using something like pronterface to enter M codes directly into the firmware. Going that route you would probably have to flip a number from 0 to 1 or 1 to -1, something like that, then use the proper M code to save the changes so it doesn't revert when you turn the power off.
Not sure an extruder really needs a 6 wire stepper, but 6 wire and 4 wire are normally wired similarly and can be reversed by turning the connector, the center tap on each coil is just for adding more power to give more torque, but if yours are keyed that's not an option. They do that to make it easier for people not to put them in backwards, but at times like this it would be so much easier to just swap the leads vs. hunting down a firmware setting.
Interesting. I just got an email response from Creality helpdesk and they directed me to this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ms-rLplPOv8
Apparently switching the wires on the connector is surprisingly easy. I will have to try that tonight. It would certainly be preferrable to trying to edit the .bin file or recompiling the Configuration.h file.
Just go easy on both the plastic and metal. I don't think I've ever broken the plastic tabs on those types of connectors but I have broken the thin metal tabs on the wire crimp connectors, happens if you push them in and then have to pull them back out and they break from too much bending. But I think the type in the video are fairly solid so harder to break, it's the Molex type that have thin metal tabs that hold the connector in the plastic.
If you have some tiny screwdrivers those work better than the blade they are using, and you are less likely to slip and cut your fingers. Although poking a tiny screwdriver into your finger is only a little better than a razor blade cut.
Woohoo! That worked! It was really easy to switch the wires around (I just had to label them to make sure I didn't screw it up) and it is not working the right way. The printer runs really quiet (not that I really cared about the noise before anyway). Unfortunately I still seem to be getting the same rippling/ghosting.
I think the next step is to replace the rollers on my X axis to see if that smooths it out. Maybe the bearings on one of them is bad or something.
Nice, one way to see if the bearings/rollers are an issue is to take the belts off the stepper motor pulleys and move each axis by hand, they should move super smooth, any resistance changes or binding as you move them means something is either not aligned or a bearing has gone bad. If they move smooth and easy next look for wobble, you shouldn't be able to move an axis perpendicular to the direction it is supposed to move. If the screws or bolts holding the bearings or rollers have loosened you can get a little sideways movement that shouldn't be there.
Another thing I just thought of, have you moved the printer to a different table? If the table can vibrate you can get resonance in the printer. Some people claim to have solved some ringing issues by putting the printer on a bed of cement pavers, to dampen out vibrations.
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on September 07, 2021, 06:12:23 PM
Nice, one way to see if the bearings/rollers are an issue is to take the belts off the stepper motor pulleys and move each axis by hand, they should move super smooth, any resistance changes or binding as you move them means something is either not aligned or a bearing has gone bad. If they move smooth and easy next look for wobble, you shouldn't be able to move an axis perpendicular to the direction it is supposed to move. If the screws or bolts holding the bearings or rollers have loosened you can get a little sideways movement that shouldn't be there.
Another thing I just thought of, have you moved the printer to a different table? If the table can vibrate you can get resonance in the printer. Some people claim to have solved some ringing issues by putting the printer on a bed of cement pavers, to dampen out vibrations.
I have checked the movement without belts and it seems very smooth. In fact even with the belts I can tip the machine about 45 degrees or more and get it to slide from it's own weight, which I figure is probably a good sign. But I will look at them again.
The printer is still on the same table I've always had it on, so that hasn't changed. I have heard about the cement block idea. The issue with that is that I am in a third floor apartment so getting them up there is not easy, and having them on the floor for a long time may not be good for the floor. And again, I wasn't having the ghosting before with the machine on the same table so it seems like I shouldn't have to do something like that just to get back to how it was before.
I notice that I am getting occasional rattling of the rollers on the frame, but only occasionally. But the very fact that it can rattle at all shows that there is more play there than there is supposed to be. So I will look at that. I did order the equipment to upgrade it to linear rails, so I think that will take care of the sloppiness.
Interestingly, the fact that the pulleys have teeth instead of smooth made another issue. Because when tightening the belt tensioner the pulley attached to the Y axis motor was stationary, so the entire belt didn't tighten equally. I will have to loosen it's set screws before tensioning the belt and then lock them again.
Quote from: Darth Geek on September 09, 2021, 03:04:58 PM
I notice that I am getting occasional rattling of the rollers on the frame, but only occasionally. But the very fact that it can rattle at all shows that there is more play there than there is supposed to be. So I will look at that. I did order the equipment to upgrade it to linear rails, so I think that will take care of the sloppiness.
Interestingly, the fact that the pulleys have teeth instead of smooth made another issue. Because when tightening the belt tensioner the pulley attached to the Y axis motor was stationary, so the entire belt didn't tighten equally. I will have to loosen it's set screws before tensioning the belt and then lock them again.
If you are talking about the set screws on the motor pulley one of them should always be centered on the flat of the motor shaft, so you shouldn't rotate the pulley from that orientation. The back and forth movement puts a lot of pressure on the setscrews so one should always be on the flat to prevent slipping. The belt should make a loop so the carriage should move if the motor shaft doesn't, so I don't see how the belt could ever not tension evenly?
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on September 09, 2021, 04:03:42 PM
Quote from: Darth Geek on September 09, 2021, 03:04:58 PM
I notice that I am getting occasional rattling of the rollers on the frame, but only occasionally. But the very fact that it can rattle at all shows that there is more play there than there is supposed to be. So I will look at that. I did order the equipment to upgrade it to linear rails, so I think that will take care of the sloppiness.
Interestingly, the fact that the pulleys have teeth instead of smooth made another issue. Because when tightening the belt tensioner the pulley attached to the Y axis motor was stationary, so the entire belt didn't tighten equally. I will have to loosen it's set screws before tensioning the belt and then lock them again.
If you are talking about the set screws on the motor pulley one of them should always be centered on the flat of the motor shaft, so you shouldn't rotate the pulley from that orientation. The back and forth movement puts a lot of pressure on the setscrews so one should always be on the flat to prevent slipping. The belt should make a loop so the carriage should move if the motor shaft doesn't, so I don't see how the belt could ever not tension evenly?
I don't think the Y axis rod for the pulleys have a flat. But I will check on that.
Last night I went through my rollers checking for bad bearings. None of them seemed to have bad bearings, but I replaced them with new rollers anyway (which I also checked and they seemed to have good bearings). I readjusted everything so they ran very smooth, and not too tight. I got the belt consistently tight all the way around (and not too tight so it isn't stretched).
Ran a new calibration cube and I am STILL getting ghosting!
I don't think it's my slicer settings. I am using 25mm/s for my outside walls (3 layer thickness), and 80mm/s for my coring. I've tried to adjust my acceleration and jerk settings and it seemed to have no effect.
A few things you can play around with:
Try a test with 5 perimeter layers, that should tell you if it's ghosting on the surface or breakthrough of the infill.
If the ghosting goes away drop the speed of your infill so it doesn't mess up the perimeters.
If the ghosting remains play with perimeter settings, do the outside perimeter last, set the outside perimeter slower. If your slicer doesn't have separate settings for inside and outside perimeters get a different slicer. I was using Cura for a long time but the Prusa slicer is all I use now and you can load in profiles for just about any printer.
Did you ever switch back the extruder from direct drive to bowden? Did the direct drive setup ever do smooth perimeters?
Slowing down the perimeters might be the only way to solve the issue.
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on September 10, 2021, 10:15:10 AM
A few things you can play around with:
Try a test with 5 perimeter layers, that should tell you if it's ghosting on the surface or breakthrough of the infill.
If the ghosting goes away drop the speed of your infill so it doesn't mess up the perimeters.
If the ghosting remains play with perimeter settings, do the outside perimeter last, set the outside perimeter slower. If your slicer doesn't have separate settings for inside and outside perimeters get a different slicer. I was using Cura for a long time but the Prusa slicer is all I use now and you can load in profiles for just about any printer.
Did you ever switch back the extruder from direct drive to bowden? Did the direct drive setup ever do smooth perimeters?
Slowing down the perimeters might be the only way to solve the issue.
The 5 layer walls is a good idea, I can try that. And I have been meaning to try the Prusa slicer, I hear from other people that it is better.
I still have it as direct drive. It did print for a few months smoothly.
Quote from: Darth Geek on September 10, 2021, 04:11:04 PM
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on September 10, 2021, 10:15:10 AM
A few things you can play around with:
Try a test with 5 perimeter layers, that should tell you if it's ghosting on the surface or breakthrough of the infill.
If the ghosting goes away drop the speed of your infill so it doesn't mess up the perimeters.
If the ghosting remains play with perimeter settings, do the outside perimeter last, set the outside perimeter slower. If your slicer doesn't have separate settings for inside and outside perimeters get a different slicer. I was using Cura for a long time but the Prusa slicer is all I use now and you can load in profiles for just about any printer.
Did you ever switch back the extruder from direct drive to bowden? Did the direct drive setup ever do smooth perimeters?
Slowing down the perimeters might be the only way to solve the issue.
The 5 layer walls is a good idea, I can try that. And I have been meaning to try the Prusa slicer, I hear from other people that it is better.
I still have it as direct drive. It did print for a few months smoothly.
The 5 layer walls didn't have any effect, so it's not my coring (and the ripples don't follow the cubic coring style that I'm using anyway). I also set the machine down on the hard linoleum floor to see if the desk wiggle was the issue, and that also had no effect.
I am currently trying different combinations of high (1500 mm/s2) medium (700 mm/s2) and low (400 mm/s2) acceleration along with high (15 mm/s) medium (8 mm/s) and low (4 mm/s) jerk settings.
I think I'll try the Prusa Slicer as well later.
Quote from: Darth Geek on September 11, 2021, 10:27:04 AM
Quote from: Darth Geek on September 10, 2021, 04:11:04 PM
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on September 10, 2021, 10:15:10 AM
A few things you can play around with:
Try a test with 5 perimeter layers, that should tell you if it's ghosting on the surface or breakthrough of the infill.
If the ghosting goes away drop the speed of your infill so it doesn't mess up the perimeters.
If the ghosting remains play with perimeter settings, do the outside perimeter last, set the outside perimeter slower. If your slicer doesn't have separate settings for inside and outside perimeters get a different slicer. I was using Cura for a long time but the Prusa slicer is all I use now and you can load in profiles for just about any printer.
Did you ever switch back the extruder from direct drive to bowden? Did the direct drive setup ever do smooth perimeters?
Slowing down the perimeters might be the only way to solve the issue.
The 5 layer walls is a good idea, I can try that. And I have been meaning to try the Prusa slicer, I hear from other people that it is better.
I still have it as direct drive. It did print for a few months smoothly.
The 5 layer walls didn't have any effect, so it's not my coring (and the ripples don't follow the cubic coring style that I'm using anyway). I also set the machine down on the hard linoleum floor to see if the desk wiggle was the issue, and that also had no effect.
I am currently trying different combinations of high (1500 mm/s2) medium (700 mm/s2) and low (400 mm/s2) acceleration along with high (15 mm/s) medium (8 mm/s) and low (4 mm/s) jerk settings.
I think I'll try the Prusa Slicer as well later.
Well the different accelerations and jerk settings made very little difference, they all had at least some ghosting. That was disappointing.
I am currently printing the calibration cube sliced with PrusaSlicer (default acceleration 500mm/s2 and jerk 8mm/s settings). We'll see if that does any better.
WOW, Prusaslicer made all the difference in the world!
Nice to hear, yes, Prusa has really been working on making their slicer better than all the others. And keeping it open so it can work for just about any printer.
Wait till you want to customize supports, they have all kinds of options for that, one I love is where you can paint on the model where you either want or don't want supports.
Quote from: Variety of Cells on September 06, 2021, 04:28:17 AM
I like reading this thread for two reasons: 3D printing is cool and I want one someday, but more importantly, this thread constantly provides perfect examples of how I do not have time to do all the tinkering and troubleshooting necessary to run a 3D printer. Just don't have time at all. So thank you for illustrating that for me.
Ha ha yeah I hear that. That's one reason that my printer is still "temporarily" at my parents house in the basement while we moved... which was back just before Covid happened...
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on September 12, 2021, 01:24:17 PM
Nice to hear, yes, Prusa has really been working on making their slicer better than all the others. And keeping it open so it can work for just about any printer.
Wait till you want to customize supports, they have all kinds of options for that, one I love is where you can paint on the model where you either want or don't want supports.
I've seen videos about that "painting" the supports. That will be interesting.
I notice that the X and Y axis still have a little shuddering. I'm not sure why I'm getting that, I have checked the bolts holding the frame together and the rollers are rolling as smooth as I can get.
In a few days I will get the linear rails and see if they help. But it's frustrating because I know not everyone is having the same problem as I am, so it seems like I should be able to get it to be good without having to go to such a change.
Quote from: Darth Geek on September 12, 2021, 06:44:50 PM
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on September 12, 2021, 01:24:17 PM
Nice to hear, yes, Prusa has really been working on making their slicer better than all the others. And keeping it open so it can work for just about any printer.
Wait till you want to customize supports, they have all kinds of options for that, one I love is where you can paint on the model where you either want or don't want supports.
I've seen videos about that "painting" the supports. That will be interesting.
I notice that the X and Y axis still have a little shuddering. I'm not sure why I'm getting that, I have checked the bolts holding the frame together and the rollers are rolling as smooth as I can get.
In a few days I will get the linear rails and see if they help. But it's frustrating because I know not everyone is having the same problem as I am, so it seems like I should be able to get it to be good without having to go to such a change.
Unfortunately that part also did a layer shift about two thirds of the way through. >:( Now I am having an Ender 5 at my work run it to see if that has the same errors.
I'm still in process of putting the linear rails on my machine. Hopefully I can get that done soon and try it. It's pretty much the last thing I know to do to improve the terrible ghosting and layer shift I have been seeing.
Well crap. The Ender 5 at work had a layer issue overnight and so that part failed. But ironically it was a completely different type of layer failure, one that I've never seen before. It wasn't a layer shift. More like not extruding for a layer or two, like if the roll got temporarily bound up or the hotend was losing heat for a little bit. Weird.
Quote from: Darth Geek on September 17, 2021, 07:23:06 AM
Well crap. The Ender 5 at work had a layer issue overnight and so that part failed. But ironically it was a completely different type of layer failure, one that I've never seen before. It wasn't a layer shift. More like not extruding for a layer or two, like if the roll got temporarily bound up or the hotend was losing heat for a little bit. Weird.
My guess would be the filament bound on the roll.
I had the filament bind on me once long ago, now I'm super careful not to ever let go of the filament end when installing or removing a roll. If I ever do let go and it springs back onto the roll I pull a good 5 feet off and roll it back on just to make sure it didn't get crossed. Basically the end can go under another loop and it will seem normal for a while but eventually it will form a knot and get hard to pull off the roll. So pull a bunch off and see if it's binding, the times I've let go and then took 5 or 6 feet off it can take several feet to show up, and might catch for a moment and let go and seem fine again but still be crossed and not bind up for several more feet.
If the roll seems fine now then maybe it was a defect in a sort section, I've seen under or over extrusion for parts of a roll due to a change in diameter but never a size change so drastic that it can't form a layer.
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on September 17, 2021, 08:19:43 AM
Quote from: Darth Geek on September 17, 2021, 07:23:06 AM
Well crap. The Ender 5 at work had a layer issue overnight and so that part failed. But ironically it was a completely different type of layer failure, one that I've never seen before. It wasn't a layer shift. More like not extruding for a layer or two, like if the roll got temporarily bound up or the hotend was losing heat for a little bit. Weird.
My guess would be the filament bound on the roll.
I had the filament bind on me once long ago, now I'm super careful not to ever let go of the filament end when installing or removing a roll. If I ever do let go and it springs back onto the roll I pull a good 5 feet off and roll it back on just to make sure it didn't get crossed. Basically the end can go under another loop and it will seem normal for a while but eventually it will form a knot and get hard to pull off the roll. So pull a bunch off and see if it's binding, the times I've let go and then took 5 or 6 feet off it can take several feet to show up, and might catch for a moment and let go and seem fine again but still be crossed and not bind up for several more feet.
If the roll seems fine now then maybe it was a defect in a sort section, I've seen under or over extrusion for parts of a roll due to a change in diameter but never a size change so drastic that it can't form a layer.
The weird part was that after doing a few layers badly that it eventually got back to normal and continued printing okay for many hours. So if it was a jam then it must have worked it's way out. Or maybe the temperature of the hot end had a problem for a while.
(https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.6435-9/242228437_4960435563970828_803419067539253072_n.jpg?_nc_cat=111&ccb=1-5&_nc_sid=b9115d&_nc_ohc=5tplzdxIezgAX-gmE8q&_nc_ht=scontent-lga3-1.xx&oh=198754caac02b6bdc1cfb602f14245a4&oe=6169EEE9)
(https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.6435-9/241990188_4960435410637510_7195383550042775045_n.jpg?_nc_cat=107&ccb=1-5&_nc_sid=b9115d&_nc_ohc=St_x_Lk2F7wAX9eD6Ou&tn=ATg5646E7ajw0tUg&_nc_ht=scontent-lga3-1.xx&oh=11547eaf280c80646bc00d59b201b44c&oe=616C90D1)
That is a strange one. Nozzle clogs normally don't fix themselves so hard to believe that was the problem. Unless there were a few pellets of a different plastic in the mixer when they made the filament, a little plastic mixed in with a higher melting point would cause a temporary slowdown. Or it was a few inches of filament with a smaller diameter.
Since you have Prusa slicer have you switched to layer view and scrolled through all the layers of that model to see if there are any missing? I've found issues with 3D models that way so I always look at all the layers before exporting the g-code even for models that look solid. Sometimes when people take a CAD model and export it to a mesh it leaves behind odd internal stuff that can mess up the slicer.
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on September 18, 2021, 09:48:51 AM
That is a strange one. Nozzle clogs normally don't fix themselves so hard to believe that was the problem. Unless there were a few pellets of a different plastic in the mixer when they made the filament, a little plastic mixed in with a higher melting point would cause a temporary slowdown. Or it was a few inches of filament with a smaller diameter.
Since you have Prusa slicer have you switched to layer view and scrolled through all the layers of that model to see if there are any missing? I've found issues with 3D models that way so I always look at all the layers before exporting the g-code even for models that look solid. Sometimes when people take a CAD model and export it to a mesh it leaves behind odd internal stuff that can mess up the slicer.
I don't think so. This error and the layer shifting errors I have seen all happen at different heights on the model. If it were a problem with the CAD or slicer profile then it should be more consistent.
Do the issues always occur in the top, larger part of the model? Looking at the shape of it I see all kinds of ways it could expand or contract on one side more than the other with temperature changes.
It's a shot in the dark but maybe putting a cardboard box around the printer to try and keep the temperature constant. It's amazing how much pressure the nozzle puts on big areas like that when printing the infill, and with a small base it's just asking for layer issues. For a top heavy model like that I would probably print it in 2 parts and glue them together. The Prusa slicer has the option to save what's on the build plate as an stl, so for stuff I print in parts I'll move it down a specific number of mm, save the top half, reload and move it down again the same amount and save the bottom half, then just flip the bottom half over for slicing.
Would the top of it print without infill? If it can zero percent infill would be another option if you don't need it to be strong. I've found that zero infill but adding a few extra perimeters still makes parts that are pretty strong, but it's not always an option depending on the shape of the top of the model.
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on September 18, 2021, 03:15:09 PM
Do the issues always occur in the top, larger part of the model? Looking at the shape of it I see all kinds of ways it could expand or contract on one side more than the other with temperature changes.
It's a shot in the dark but maybe putting a cardboard box around the printer to try and keep the temperature constant. It's amazing how much pressure the nozzle puts on big areas like that when printing the infill, and with a small base it's just asking for layer issues. For a top heavy model like that I would probably print it in 2 parts and glue them together. The Prusa slicer has the option to save what's on the build plate as an stl, so for stuff I print in parts I'll move it down a specific number of mm, save the top half, reload and move it down again the same amount and save the bottom half, then just flip the bottom half over for slicing.
Would the top of it print without infill? If it can zero percent infill would be another option if you don't need it to be strong. I've found that zero infill but adding a few extra perimeters still makes parts that are pretty strong, but it's not always an option depending on the shape of the top of the model.
It is supporting the weight of the rest of the statue and upper lamp weight, so yes it does need pretty good infill (I have it at 20%)
It is always the top of the model that it has problems. I had not thought of putting something around it for temperature consistency. I'd have to find a decent sized box, but I could give it a shot.
I finally got the linear rails on the machine. I made sure I lubed them properly and the X and Y axis are running smooth and square. AND SOMEHOW THE RIPPLLING IS EVEN WORSE! What the hell is going on?!
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.6435-9/242292660_4969201549760896_91084106156618383_n.jpg?_nc_cat=104&ccb=1-5&_nc_sid=b9115d&_nc_ohc=R6CYy_y4dBUAX-b8f44&_nc_ht=scontent-iad3-1.xx&oh=a9da4225de55d9d6d6e6959c84800e6b&oe=616D8020)
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.6435-9/242555175_4969201636427554_8863249781499106709_n.jpg?_nc_cat=108&ccb=1-5&_nc_sid=b9115d&_nc_ohc=UZ1WVYIEEd4AX9pcKNq&_nc_ht=scontent-iad3-1.xx&oh=4545651c6a562326f7df8b770537a745&oe=616CD443)
Ouch, classic case of making the machine more accurate in one way and it shows off a deficiency in another area...
That is so regular on both axis, and it doesn't decay like normal ringing does. Normal ringing and ghosting has big close waves near the direction changes and they get lower and farther apart farther away from the corner that starts it.
Is the distance between the "waves" consistent no matter how large the part is? Also is it the same with different filaments?
It looks like something is happening in both axies at regular intervals, so look for something common to both. I guess both stepper motors could be having the same issue but that seems unlikely...
That wave pattern isn't the same size as the teeth on the belts is it? If it is check to see if the inside of the belts are rubbing against something.
It could also be slight repeditive changes in how the filament is being fed. I would take the extruder apart and check the "gear(s)" that grabs the filament, clean the teeth out real well, look for anything that might cause the filament to bind and slip as the gear turns. Cleaning out the filament path is something that has to be done periodically, so if you have been printing a lot a cleaning might be due.
Might be good to print one of those cubes but cancel the print half way, then look at the top layer with a magnifier. Might need a 10x magnifier or maybe a close up picture. You may be able to tell if the waves are caused by the extruded plastic getting fatter and thinnier or if they are caused by side to side movement. Fatter/thinner it's an extrusion issue, side to side is an axis issue.
Quote from: Darth Geek on September 19, 2021, 02:16:33 PM
I finally got the linear rails on the machine. I made sure I lubed them properly and the X and Y axis are running smooth and square. AND SOMEHOW THE RIPPLLING IS EVEN WORSE! What the hell is going on?!
Are those googgly-eyes on your socks?
Quote from: eegah on September 19, 2021, 06:46:57 PM
Quote from: Darth Geek on September 19, 2021, 02:16:33 PM
I finally got the linear rails on the machine. I made sure I lubed them properly and the X and Y axis are running smooth and square. AND SOMEHOW THE RIPPLLING IS EVEN WORSE! What the hell is going on?!
Are those googgly-eyes on your socks?
Ha ha, no it's the out of focus Under Armor logo.
So I came across an article with an interesting suggestion of stronger bed springs. Looking at my machine, the springs are the stock ones that came with it, but they were also almost at their full extension. So they were applying very little load on the bed. I tightened them down and readjusted the stop sensor to accommodate. That seems to have helped. Interestingly, I also increased the wall speed to 40mm/s instead of 25 and it looks better. Maybe 25 just happened to coincide with my machine's natural harmonics? I also turned off acceleration and jerk control in Cura and used the controls in the firmware of the machine, and I lowered that from 500 mm/s2 to 300 mm/s2.
Well I just had a very bad situation. My printer started continuously blaring a very LOUD alarm, and the screen was telling me there was a thermal runaway error and I had to reset. But turning or pressing the knob didn't do anything! Turning it off was the only thing I could do. Is that what it meant by reset, or was there something else I was supposed to do?
After waiting a little, I took the cover off the hot end and it looks like one of the thick red wires wasn't attached to anything.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.6435-9/242684986_4986120968068954_7895203464533735430_n.jpg?_nc_cat=110&ccb=1-5&_nc_sid=dbeb18&_nc_ohc=KEejnznTTI0AX-Qd_8x&_nc_ht=scontent-iad3-1.xx&oh=486a9c0695d4c198c345bbe51dc410ec&oe=617166CA)
I'm guessing there was a wire connected to the white disk.
EDIT: So I restarted it and resumed the print just to see what it would do. The bed heated up okay but once it started heating the hotend it gave me the same error:
Heating Failed: E1
You'll need a new heater cartridge, $10 to $20 usually.
The white disk is the ceramic inside a metal cylinder that contains the heating element, those wires are usually hard to break but if not cable managed so they don't move the constant flexing can brake any wire. Someone on the heater block there will be a screw that when you loosen it the heater cartridge should slide out.
Oh, and be extra careful of the tiny wires going to the thermistor next to the heater, those are super easy to break.
I ordered a new heater coil. And I'm using this as a good time as any to convert to an all metal hot end. We'll see how it goes installing that this weekend.
The Micro Swiss all metal hot end and replacement heater coil went well. It is on and running now. Apparently I'm supposed to change something called PIP settings in my machine so it controls the new hot end better since it will heat up and cool down differently than the stock one I had in it. I'm supposed to send a gcode for the printer to test it and find out what values I need. If it's a gcode then it seems like something I should be able to generate with Cura, but the videos I have seen are all using more elaborate setups than I have with Octoprint and stuff like that. I'm not at that level.
Quote from: Darth Geek on September 26, 2021, 10:17:42 AM
The Micro Swiss all metal hot end and replacement heater coil went well. It is on and running now. Apparently I'm supposed to change something called PIP settings in my machine so it controls the new hot end better since it will heat up and cool down differently than the stock one I had in it. I'm supposed to send a gcode for the printer to test it and find out what values I need. If it's a gcode then it seems like something I should be able to generate with Cura, but the videos I have seen are all using more elaborate setups than I have with Octoprint and stuff like that. I'm not at that level.
A PID tuning adjusts the control parameters so when it heats the hot end it doesn't overshoot and maintains a more even temperature. You are supposed to do it when ever you make changes to the hot end.
Normally you issue M codes for that, not G codes. To issue M codes you use something like pronterface to get a text interface going to the printer and enter the commands manually. But I have done it with a gcode file.
You just open a text editor, enter the line of m code, and save it as something like PID.gcode, then "print" the file on the printer.
An example of a line of m code to start a PID autotune (tuning extruder zero at 200 °C, 8 cycles):
M303 E0 S200 C8
Some printers you have to save the new values into the firmware with an M500 command so they don't get lost when you turn off the printer, so you would create a gcode file called something like save.gcode and it would just have one line that says M500.
If you haven't done it yet open up one of your .gcode files in something like Word, it's kind of cool to look at all the commands in there and how it tells the printer to do stuff.
Well it WAS printing well, and then one of the wires to my X motor broke and the print failed. It worried me because it gave me the error that "homing failed" when I stopped the print. Only after that I found out the wire was broken.
At least it means the failure was unrelated to the new hot end. I was concerned about clogging, which is supposed to be an issue with these all metal ones.
*sigh* I am still getting layer shifting on large parts in my Ender 5.
(https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.6435-9/244429119_5030185733662477_3691667825331171445_n.jpg?_nc_cat=100&ccb=1-5&_nc_sid=825194&_nc_ohc=uMyx1uygik8AX-xMv3d&tn=ATg5646E7ajw0tUg&_nc_ht=scontent-lga3-1.xx&oh=9fcf3b575b9f382e9beb9ae919213efd&oe=617F4F82)
Interestingly this time it was in the X axis when the other layer shifting has been in the Y axis.
The ghosting is mostly gone in smaller parts and one the bottom of this, but it is noticeably increased as it gets higher. I'm wondering if an almost kilogram of material is too much weight for the cantilever bed on the Ender 5.
Quote from: Darth Geek on October 03, 2021, 05:34:50 PM
The ghosting is mostly gone in smaller parts and one the bottom of this, but it is noticeably increased as it gets higher. I'm wondering if an almost kilogram of material is too much weight for the cantilever bed on the Ender 5.
Hard to imagine the weight of the print being the issue, but as I said before there is considerable force being applied as the nozzle lays down each layer, so any issues with the bearings or rod/rail holders would be magnified as the bed moves down. Basic mechanical advantage of a longer lever.
Also any weakness in the bed leveling system would show up, any part of the system relying on spring tension would start to break down.
Is it a magnetic bed? Maybe the magnets are not strong enough.
It only takes a momentary shift to cause a stepper motor to skip, so unless you were watching it when it happened you wouldn't know the reason for the shift.
That does give me an idea for troubleshooting, don't take the failed print off the bed, use it to do some tests by grabbing the top of it and see if you can move/tip it even a little. If you can move it figure what part is letting it move.
The Z axis is always the hardest to troubleshoot because of the threaded rod(s), can't easily get them out of the system to feel the movement by hand, best you can usually do is run the motors as fast as possible and watch and listen for binding or wobble.
Well the layer shifting is massively worse now:
(https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.6435-9/244599790_5032170256797358_3265033180869377137_n.jpg?_nc_cat=103&ccb=1-5&_nc_sid=825194&_nc_ohc=eyIHsb0sSoUAX_4AbGh&_nc_oc=AQl35Z2wTnUSn3uAl8r4NygcKTHtqw6tadJ2kYBD6VJK7VkVZhjEjnt7hWpAFmKFI3wcaY90EsI76ROGSdW1w_tG&_nc_ht=scontent-lga3-1.xx&oh=465a3a87ce3ee4cb8ea863918e63aa3d&oe=618047DA)
It turns out my fan under the board has stopped working so I need to look at it's wiring.
The linear rails are running more rough now and have a residue around them:
(https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.6435-9/244461462_5032332790114438_6873009646141186537_n.jpg?_nc_cat=107&ccb=1-5&_nc_sid=b9115d&_nc_ohc=t1bCeTVcCYQAX9jFxFy&_nc_ht=scontent-lga3-1.xx&oh=6a3bebcefb635f3c64798aeb5cae170e&oe=618297BB)
It looks like the rails I got on Amazon were not real stainless steel, just coated steel. That may be the issue.
I have the replacement stainless steel rails on order for the Ender 5.
I just got my second printer, an Ender 5 Plus. I'm able to get the bed level with it pretty good, and it is supposed to accommodate any additional imbalance. When I level it the Nozzle is the correct ~0.2mm away by using the Post-It note as a feeler gage. But when it starts to print the nozzle is farther away. My first layer measures about 0.38mm and doesn't stick well at all.
Ah, adding to the print farm... At one point I had 3 printers.
Does it have a Z probe on the hot end? If it does there will be some option somewhere to set the first layer Z offset. Some call it first layer calibration. Some do it live where it prints a long line and you adjust it while it goes along until you get the proper "squish", some you just have to put in an offset, do a test, then put in a better offset and test again, rinse and repeat until you get the proper setting.
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on October 08, 2021, 01:22:34 PM
Ah, adding to the print farm... At one point I had 3 printers.
Does it have a Z probe on the hot end? If it does there will be some option somewhere to set the first layer Z offset. Some call it first layer calibration. Some do it live where it prints a long line and you adjust it while it goes along until you get the proper "squish", some you just have to put in an offset, do a test, then put in a better offset and test again, rinse and repeat until you get the proper setting.
Yeah, it came with an installed BL Touch. I'm going to try adjusting it while it's printing the first line. I'm just concerned about it being too low and crashing later
Wow, this new Prusa XL looks really cool!
Quote from: Darth Geek on November 19, 2021, 06:13:27 AM
Wow, this new Prusa XL looks really cool!
I hope they put that extruder into the MK3 design, it would be nice to have all those features in a smaller printer.
I suppose with the easy to swap nozzles going to a larger diameter would be easy, only way large printing works is if you sacrifice resolution and use a larger diameter nozzle. When I built my larger printer I never used it's full size because the print times were crazy, when the slicer says it's going to take more than 2 days to print something you change your mind about printing it.
Quote from: MartyS (Gromit) on November 19, 2021, 08:23:32 AM
Quote from: Darth Geek on November 19, 2021, 06:13:27 AM
Wow, this new Prusa XL looks really cool!
I hope they put that extruder into the MK3 design, it would be nice to have all those features in a smaller printer.
Yeah I'm very curious how that cycloidal extruder ends up doing. Maybe it will become an industry standard. And I love that it comes using linear rails.
The base model is still pretty expensive at $2000.
3D printing uses computer-aided design (CAD) to create three-dimensional objects through a layering method. Sometimes referred to as additive manufacturing, 3D printing involves layering materials, like plastics, composites or bio-materials to create objects that range in shape, size, rigidity and color.
Quote from: davidandrewmiller10 on December 18, 2021, 09:14:44 AM
3D printing uses computer-aided design (CAD) to create three-dimensional objects through a layering method. Sometimes referred to as additive manufacturing, 3D printing involves layering materials, like plastics, composites or bio-materials to create objects that range in shape, size, rigidity and color.
Not sure what this :spammer: was going on about but he's gone..
Quote from: RVR II on December 18, 2021, 12:17:57 PM
Quote from: davidandrewmiller10 on December 18, 2021, 09:14:44 AM
3D printing uses computer-aided design (CAD) to create three-dimensional objects through a layering method. Sometimes referred to as additive manufacturing, 3D printing involves layering materials, like plastics, composites or bio-materials to create objects that range in shape, size, rigidity and color.
Not sure what this :spammer: was going on about but he's gone..
This person was making a post on a forum. Posting uses characters from a chosen language to share thoughts and ideas over the internet. Sometimes referred to message boards, forums involve text of different fonts, colors, and sizes. Common uses include making other people feel bad so that you can feel superior.
Quote from: Variety of Cells on December 18, 2021, 01:08:32 PM
Quote from: RVR II on December 18, 2021, 12:17:57 PM
Quote from: davidandrewmiller10 on December 18, 2021, 09:14:44 AM
3D printing uses computer-aided design (CAD) to create three-dimensional objects through a layering method. Sometimes referred to as additive manufacturing, 3D printing involves layering materials, like plastics, composites or bio-materials to create objects that range in shape, size, rigidity and color.
Not sure what this :spammer: was going on about but he's gone..
This person was making a post on a forum. Posting uses characters from a chosen language to share thoughts and ideas over the internet. Sometimes referred to message boards, forums involve text of different fonts, colors, and sizes. Common uses include making other people feel bad so that you can feel superior.
Ohhh, I'll play: This person was posting a dictionary definition of a forum topic on the internet, in a prelude to (as the boys in Monty Python would sing) Spam Spam Spam Spam Spam Spam Spam and Spam.
Back on topic, I had to redesign my sword holders. I made the first ones too fancy and they were not strong enough, started to bend, they also had the sword a little too far out from the wall.
So these are much stronger:
(https://www.science.widener.edu/~schultz/3dprinter/new%20sword%20holders.jpg)
My Windows tablet was designed to work with a super expensive external gpu that I'll never buy due to its price and the tablet's internal GeForce 3050 meeting my needs without it.
Annoying thing about the design though is that the external gpu uses a special port that is hidden behind a little rubber cover that also hides a USB-C port.
Figured maybe someone makes a port cover that covers the external gpu port I won't use but doesn't cover the USB port I do use.
Nope. Not produced, but others have expressed same desire for it and I found plans on Thingiverse.
Don't have a 3D printer, but used PrintAThing service to have 10 printed. Didn't need 10 but wanted at least a couple of extras and the cost was only $10 total, half of which was for shipping. Arrived in less than a week and fit perfectly.
Don't think I'd use a 3D printer enough to buy one, but PrintAThing service was great.
Kind of a frivolous expenditure on something that would probably cost 50 cents if it was mass produced and readily available, but amazing to me that something this specialized can be made quickly on demand.